D4 Electric Trailer Brake Wiring

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Originally Posted by Tombie

Variable voltage is how the brakes work…
Wind it right up and test.

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I thought as much, will do a tow test tomorrow thanks

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Originally Posted by Tombie

Variable voltage is how the brakes work…
Wind it right up and test.

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but no green when coupled up, coupled up no red on pedal, uncoupled red on pedal depression, stumped now

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Originally Posted by stuarth44

but no green when coupled up, coupled up no red on pedal, uncoupled red on pedal depression, stumped now

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If you had the Redarc installed by a technician, you ought to check the wiring. I have found one vehicle where they installed the brake controller to the blue wire on the trailer socket. In theory the blue is the brake trigger output in all makes, BUT on a Landrover is bloody brown! Just saying... this caused a whole tonne of wierd behaviours when the trailer was attached.

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Originally Posted by imaz

If you had the Redarc installed by a technician, you ought to check the wiring. I have found one vehicle where they installed the brake controller to the blue wire on the trailer socket. In theory the blue is the brake trigger output in all makes, BUT on a Landrover is bloody brown! Just saying... this caused a whole tonne of wierd behaviours when the trailer was attached.

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yes, took me forever to track wiring, which was done really well, finally found the live wire dropped down beside the battery, somebody must have left it off, meanwhile it took just 15 mins to swap the unit for the latest, control will need moving, as it was was on the left of the wheel low down, think I'll place it on the same panel as the round light switch.
thanks for assistance, I'd best check out what you have said

So I’ve ordered the redarc tow-pro trailer break controller for my 2010 D4 so I can tow the new camp trailer.

There’s 70 pages of posts here and I’ve had a bit of a scan and search but can anyone confirm which wiring loom I need to order?

Is it the universal extended one? Universal Tow-Pro Extended Wiring Kit | REDARC Electronics

And do I also select the universal switch insert?

I presume there still isn’t a plug and play for the 2010 D4?

Thanks.

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Originally Posted by WabiSabi

So I’ve ordered the redarc tow-pro trailer break controller for my 2010 D4 so I can tow the new camp trailer.

There’s 70 pages of posts here and I’ve had a bit of a scan and search but can anyone confirm which wiring loom I need to order?

Is it the universal extended one? Universal Tow-Pro Extended Wiring Kit | REDARC Electronics

And do I also select the universal switch insert?

I presume there still isn’t a plug and play for the 2010 D4?

Thanks.

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The universal wiring kit isn’t really required if you can get hold of some 30amp wiring. Redarc universal wiring kit seems rather expensive.

There is a sticky post on what needs to be done, check it out as it’s relatively straightforward.

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Originally Posted by imaz

The universal wiring kit isn’t really required if you can get hold of some 30amp wiring. Redarc universal wiring kit seems rather expensive.

There is a sticky post on what needs to be done, check it out as it’s relatively straightforward.

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Thanks Imaz that makes sense now.

Happy to get some 30amp and go down that route. I’ve been looking through the sticky posts, you mean the one we are in now yeah? Just that it’s 12 years old now so making sure nothing has changed on the redarc side.

Cheers

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Originally Posted by WabiSabi

Thanks Imaz that makes sense now.

Happy to get some 30amp and go down that route. I’ve been looking through the sticky posts, you mean the one we are in now yeah? Just that it’s 12 years old now so making sure nothing has changed on the redarc side.

Cheers

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Have a look at post 450 from strydes in this thread which contains a detailed PDF overview. I highly recommend getting a Redarc diode, much better product and makes the job so much easier. I ran narva twin core 6mm (4.58mm2) 50Ahttps://www.aulro.com/mobile-gallery...fc0cea7ac9.jpg

Brilliant I will check it out. Thanks

hi sniegy
thanks for this post it has answered a lot of my questions. I have removed the LHS tail light and tape from the harness for a few centimetres but there is no split in the cable. I have removed the inside panel and located the harness from the trailer plug. If I cut the blue cable and connect the controller output to the blue cable will this work. Then splice into the red for the input for the controller.
any advice appreciated
Romer.

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Originally Posted by sniegy

Morning all,
Thought i would post up some photo's i have for the new D4 Electric trailer brakes.
The wiring has changed in the Discovery 4 which is a good thing as it is easier to wire.
Now lets begin & hopefully it will be clear for all to follow.

Trailer Plug info(7 Pin Plug):- Australian Regs:-
Pin1 Yellow Left Indicator
Pin2 Black Reverse/Auxilary
Pin3 White Earth
Pin4 Green Right Indicator
Pin5 Blue Electric trailer brakes/Auxilary
Pin6 Red Brakes
Pin7 Brown Tail lights


As per usual 4 wires:-
Black +ve direct to battery via Circuit Breaker.
White -ve direct to battery/battery post.
Red Connection to brake light wire in trailer loom.
Blue Connection to Pin No. 5 on Black trailer plug socket.
You will need to run Black & White wire to the front of the vehicle & the Red & Blue wire to the rear of the vehicle under the L/H/S tail light.
All 4 wires will run from the position you decide to place your Electric trailer brake unit. (normally at the L/H top edge of the panel under the steering wheel).
When removing this panel just grab the top section & pull in an arc downward, if you brake, lose the clips the part number is FYC500040.

In this photo below i have had to find the splice joint in the wiring loom for the park light circuit (all European vehicles run a left & a right park light circuit in there vehicle wiring loom)
It is basically one wire feeding 2 Pin outs. (Pin 7 is our park light circuit & Pin 5 is our supply for our Electric trailer brake varying voltge).
Remove the L/H/R tail light assembly by undoing the 2 phillips head screws & then prising the light gentry from the body with a flat blade & cloth inserted between them so as not to scratch the paint work.
Cut away the black tape on the loom that goes down to the bottom connector, you will come across the splice joint (brown cable with glue coming out on connection-you will notice it starts as a black wire only & after this splice joint it will have a brown & black coming out). The black wire goes to Pin no. 7 & is your park light wire, the brown wire is the other park light wire that we do not need & connect the blue wire to for your trailer brakes. Cut wire as close to splice as possible, tape splice joint up & connect your blue wire to the brown wire that now goes to the plug in the wiring loom.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im.../2016/11/3.jpg

What we have done is basically supply the cut brown wire the varying voltage for your trailer brakes via the blue wire we have run.
The red wire just connects to the red wire in the same loom that goes to the bottom plug, this is the brake light wire pick up.
In this photo you can just make out the 2 connections & the cut of the brown wire.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im.../2016/11/4.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im.../2016/11/5.jpg

The photo above just shows the exit point on the firewall (rubber grommet) that i passed the cable through. This is on the drivers side brake booster compartment.
Below shows how i cable tied up nice & neatly the Black & White wire to connect directly to the battery via a Circuit breaker & Earth post next to the Main battery box.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im.../2016/11/6.jpg

On the new vehicles there is no 2nd fuse box in the rear nor the need for the Diode.

Cheers all.

p.s. sorry for the poor quality images, from my phone. Will hopefully get better pics when i can.

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