-
Hey Sniegy.
No need for the sarcasm. I did do a search, and as I said in an earlier post, read every relevant thread to do with this topic. My question was whether there were D3 specific instructions (so I can hand them to the installer of my Redarc unit) The link you have supplied does not specify what model you're talking about.
You have now answered my question, and by the sounds of it the answer really is 'no'.
Thanks.
-
Sadie,
I apologise if it seemed as i came across "sarcastic", this wasnt my intention.
I do try a lot to help as much as i can where ever possible & try to save the people who use this forum some money to spend on camping around this wonderful country of ours.
It does get frustrating at times to see the same question pop up on a day to day basis.
So..
No, not one specifically for what you have asked, But as i have noted the 2 threads combined will do what you ask.
If you do want some tips, again please ask (PM me) & will happily help out.
-
Cheers Sniegy.
No offence taken. Thanks again for your help. :)
Steve
-
Hi Sniegy,
I've tried to PM you but my sent items box shows no messages sent, so hoping to contact you via this thread.
I really appreciate the time you have spent reviewing the brake controller wire up. I'll follow your instructions as best I can, but I'm struggling to understand the EBC blue and red splice instructions. In my last one I picked up both wires down at the trailer connector behind the rear bar. In yours you have attached both wires inside the car behind the rear light housing. This is the bit I'm not totally grasping. Please would you describe it again.
many thanks,
Graham
-
Hi Graham,
Sorry for the delayed reply, but have been a tad busy.
The red & blue wires from the electric trailer brake unit connect to the wires below the L/H/R tail light.
The loom exits the vehicle from the large round gommet behind the light.
The loom runs to a group of plugs attached to the L/H/S bumper on the inside.
You may need to peel some of the tape away from the loom exiting the vehicle find a black wire that goes into a soldered hotwax connection & then becomes 2 wires, A black & A brown wire.
You need to cut the brown wire away from the hotwax connection & connect the blue wire to the brown wire. This is the supply for the variable voltage to your trailer brakes.
You now need to find the red wire in the same loom & connect the red wire from the electric trailer brake unit to the same wire, either by connectors or solder depending on what you prefer.
You just need to make a "T" type connection.
Hope this helps.
Cheers
-
Hi all,
First time poster, take it easy if I have missed the obvious.
I have read and searched the threads and "Sneigy" has provided detailed instructions on what I would like to do - however... I do not confuse my aspirations with my abilities and will need to find a professional who can do a REDARC EBRH in the Adelaide area.
I have a D4 and dont want holes or obtrusive break controller units in the cockpit, (I might tow 3-4 times a year, if I am lucky)
I spoke to one retailer, who quoted $400 but they acknowledged they hadn't done a D4 - not many have apparently. This concerns me. (Yes, I could print off the instructions further in this thread - as others have suggested)
Any suggestions on local "experienced" installers in Adelaide are appreciated, (I wouldn't rule out a drive to Melbourne to see you Sneigy if I cant find a local)
Thanks
-
PM me if you really do want to do this.
Happy to help.
Cheers;)
-
Just completed my redarc ebrh install over the weekend using sniegy's post and pics and all is well. Most annoying part was finding the silly little metal clips!!
Thanks again and now looking forward to hooking up the new jayco basestation on Saturday! Shame the guy next to me who also wanted to buy the Van at the caravan and camping show had to pass because his Pajero was not suitable as a tug!! Gotta luv the D4....
-
Thanks Sniegy,
Just finished the wire up following your excellent advise. And god, those clips are buggers to get back out of the door foot well!!!
All done though and linked up nicely. Road test to follow.
thanks again.
-
Hi guys, first post here, and I hope it is in the correct place? I'm having difficulty in negotiating round the forum, but that's 'cause I'm new to it.
Pick up my D4 3L SE in about a week, and I am on this thread because the first job is wire up of brake controller. I tow a 3Tonne off roader, and I've got to get that legal first.
The 9 pages of this thread have been extremely educational, thanks to Sniegy, and a couple of others. I thank you all. I am already, mentally doing the job, and no car yet.
Regarding mounting of the controller, here is my 'tuppence' worth.
I have been towing with a 100 series L/Cruiser, and I mounted my Tekonsha in the ashtray space. I removed the ashtray, and using 8mm perspex, cut an oblong 94 x124mm, and using the Tekonsha supplied bracket, I mounted the controller at the front edge of the perspex. I had to double up the thickness of perspex (16 mm) at this point, because the bracket had longish legs on it. Now with the Tekonsha attached, it was a sound fit, and runs in the rails that the ashtray ran in. This position also provides an uninterrupted view of the unit's readout, and is easily reached if override operation is required. The unit can be removed, and stored, after a trip, as I fitted a Narva type plug and socket to the end of the cables, which came with the unit.
Don't know if this philosophy will work in the D4, will find out in a week or so.
Regards, Don.