Thread: crazy idea ???

Originally Posted by Dougal

Nothing to stop you doing axles now and engine/box later. Or even the other way around.

either way whichever way I decide to go, my range rover will be off the road for a while until I gather all the bits for this project , I won't be able to afford to do all of it all in one hit and but as said no space to do any of this work is my biggest problem.

Originally Posted by Bush65

With what you are thinking, the 2 issues that would be at the top of my list are:

1. adaptor for LT230 to Isuzu gearbox

2. starter motor clearance to chassis rail

I like the idea of a 4BD1T and gearbox from an Isuzu truck. As you seem to be thinking this way, I suggest you look seriously at getting one of the small batch that the_grubb is making

If you have looked at that thread, you will notice that the starter he used when checking the truck flywheel housing, didn't foul the chassis (unlike my different starter). So there is a solution - you just need to find one of those starters.

Going with the Isuzu gearbox, you will have IMHO a better gearbox than LT95, better clutch, and avoid having to find many other hard to get parts that Land Rover used.

There will be other issues like 24V alternator and engine mounts, but none too difficult to work around.

Edit: For what it's worth, if you are going to fit Nissan axles, I would fit them before or preferably at the same time as the 4BD1T. The Nissan pumpkin is a bit larger and the tie rod is higher than rover. So you would not get a nasty surprise with engine to diff/tierod clearance later on. Also uni-joints on Nissan driveshafts are much better than rover with their narrow yokes and small joints, and they will mate with the pinion flange.

thanks John ,you've certainly given me lots to think about ,I kinda of schemed thru grubb's thread but didn't pay too much attention, I will have a careful read.
re: the starter , If I was to source the same starter that Grubby used in his post then the starter to chassis clearance is not an issue..???

what are my options regarding the 24 volt alternator ? is it easy to fit a 12 volt alternator or is there anything stopping me from running a 24 volt alternator and converting 24-12 volt.

Originally Posted by Disco_owner

either way whichever way I decide to go, my range rover will be off the road for a while until I gather all the bits for this project , I won't be able to afford to do all of it all in one hit and but as said no space to do any of this work is my biggest problem.




thanks John ,you've certainly given me lots to think about ,I kinda of schemed thru grubb's thread but didn't pay too much attention, I will have a careful read.
re: the starter , If I was to source the same starter that Grubby used in his post then the starter to chassis clearance is not an issue..???

what are my options regarding the 24 volt alternator ? is it easy to fit a 12 volt alternator or is there anything stopping me from running a 24 volt alternator and converting 24-12 volt.

The_grubb posted a pic that showed that the particular starter cleared the chassis rail.

My engine is from a truck and its 24V starter has an offset gear reduction, which puts the motor further out where it will foul the chassis.

From memory the one the_grubb has is 12V and no offset.

I have recently swapped chassis from a rangie to a 110. I moved the engine (and firewall) further back and further to the right so the starter clears. I doubt you would want to do that.

I still have the 24V alternator, but intend to swap it to a readily available 12V alternator (perhaps even multi rib, serpentine belt drive). I don't need the vacuum pump (hydroboost brakes) but you will need an alternator with vacuum pump unless you install a separate vacuum pump. Someone posted that alternators from the 4JB1T (Jackaroo or Rodeo) will fit and have a vacuum pump.

IMHO it is better to use a 12V alternator. No problem using a 24V starter if you use 2 batteries and a series/parallel switch.