Thread: Early 4BD1-T

Dunno if it applies to the 4BD1Ts, but my '88 is significantly more quiet than the '85 was.

While I was over in the Solomons, I noticed a few of the later 6be's were using garretts. IHI bits and pieces are still readily available at reasonable prices, eBay is your friend:Turbocharger IHI RHB6 CI53 ISUZU 4BD1T / HITACHI EX120 : eBay Motors (item 120552011828 end time May-02-10 16:26:43 PDT)

You'll find any spec from a multitude of suppliers in the US alone. I sourced a brand new turbo from Brisbane a few years ago for about $800 delivered to Cairns.

Originally Posted by 1103.9TDI

While I was over in the Solomons, I noticed a few of the later 6be's were using garretts. IHI bits and pieces are still readily available at reasonable prices, eBay is your friend:Turbocharger IHI RHB6 CI53 ISUZU 4BD1T / HITACHI EX120 : eBay Motors (item 120552011828 end time May-02-10 16:26:43 PDT)

You'll find any spec from a multitude of suppliers in the US alone. I sourced a brand new turbo from Brisbane a few years ago for about $800 delivered to Cairns.

Snap. I turned the same one up doing a search

RHB6 direct from china.

Wholesale-Turbo charger RHB6 NB190027

Hmm, this particular engine may not happen, seems like too many bits missing and the things partially pulled down with bits like the injection pipes unplugged, which is a bit of a worry.
It is a genuine 'T' by the looks of things, has the dual oil filters, spin on fuel filter, inlet manifold has the inlet centralised between 2 & 3 (does that indicate a rough age ?) and i've been given an engine number if that may also be an indicator of age.

At the price being asked I'm bloody tempted, but living in the bush it'll be a PITA sourcing the missing bits, although the Tdi is running fine ATM even with a slightly low hot idle oil pressure so I will have more than enough time (or have I put the mocker on myself saying that ? ).

Originally Posted by rick130

Hmm, this particular engine may not happen, seems like too many bits missing and the things partially pulled down with bits like the injection pipes unplugged, which is a bit of a worry.
It is a genuine 'T' by the looks of things, has the dual oil filters, spin on fuel filter, inlet manifold has the inlet centralised between 2 & 3 (does that indicate a rough age ?) and i've been given an engine number if that may also be an indicator of age.

At the price being asked I'm bloody tempted, but living in the bush it'll be a PITA sourcing the missing bits, although the Tdi is running fine ATM even with a slightly low hot idle oil pressure so I will have more than enough time (or have I put the mocker on myself saying that ? ).

Rick,

I think your best bet is to find a rusty or damaged NPR truck. That way you have everything. You can even use it around the farm till you do the conversion!

Originally Posted by isuzurover

Rick,

I think your best bet is to find a rusty or damaged NPR truck. That way you have everything. You can even use it around the farm till you do the conversion!

I think you're right Ben.
I also think I have one of the fella's in town worried. Ran into him the other day and started quizzing him on the engine in his truck.
Guess what it is

Regarding genuine 'T' and year:

I wouldn't take oil filters as an indication. AFAIK the 4BD1 and 4BD1T both had full flow + bypass spin on filters. It was engine in land rovers that didn't have these - may be because there is an opinion that Land Rover used an Industrial version of the 4BD1.

I would be looking at where the oil supply and drain lines for the turbo terminate, also the crankcase ventilation.

The month and year will be found (printed in permanent ink) on the head (located on one of the rocker post mounting faces - not an easy check unfortunately).

If the head is off you might also find the month and year printed on the deck of the block. They mark the size code for the liners on the deck - so make sure not to remove the permanent ink printing by zealous cleaning if the liners are to be replaced.

I think it was Murray who pointed out that the year is used as the first 2 numbers cast on the right side of the block (between fuel injection pump and sump). This was correct for my 89, 4BD1T.