Thread: County Isuzu Conversion - prep tasks

Not a very critical one but certainly worth considering & very easy when the PAS pump is sitting loose. I've just about finished re-newing the oil seal which sits inside the pump. Mine failed some time ago (I exchanged it with a spare pump I had at the time) when I realised that the reddy AT fluid in the PAS reservoir was jet black (from engine oil) and very over full.

When I pulled the pump apart during this last week I discovered the shaft which drives the pump was badly scored from the seal which meant I had to fit a speedi sleeve.

Watch out for a tutorial by the end of the week (hopefully).

Cheers,
Rob W

Thanks Rob. I wouldn't have even thought of that possibility - too many years of external pumps. I picked up my PAS pump on Friday, so I don't even have to remove it from the engine.
Will look out for the tutorial

I was wondering about things like rear crank seal, and gearbox input seal. They are a pain to get to later, but sometimes if they aren't leaking they are better left alone. Any ideas?

Steve

Rear main seal
Gearbox oil pump drive
Clutch throw out bearing

They are the main ones that I would change while it's out.

Eric

crank seals
check the clutch
fit a turbo thats what I did before fitting mine.

I'd do all the crank bearings.
Because they made a big difference to idle noise on my engine and stopped the back crank seal from leaking.

Originally Posted by Dougal

I'd do all the crank bearings.
Because they made a big difference to idle noise on my engine and stopped the back crank seal from leaking.

Isn't yours a truck engine? This is out of a Series 3 Stage 1, hence never done any real work.

Originally Posted by kaa45

Isn't yours a truck engine? This is out of a Series 3 Stage 1, hence never done any real work.

Originally a truck engine, it's been in my rangie since about 1992. It's had a hard life including seal debris in the oil pump, oil loss several times, turbo failure (due to the oil loss) air cleaner failure, ring/bore failure in 27,000km and other things I try to forget.
In spite of all this, the original crank is still in fantastic condition.

I did an in-situ piston/liner/head rebuild sometime around 05, finally pulled the engine and did the main bearings about two years back and was amazed at the difference in idle noise. The rear main seal was also working for the first time ever. It had one burp since, due to a crimped breather so the crankcase pressurised.

simple easy ones:

1, clean out all the metal fuel lines (including the inline filter in the banjo fitting) and replace all the rubber parts with viton tubing (bio-diesel friendly).

2, Consider changing to a remote mounted CAV style fuel filter and plumb accordingly.

3, Consider changing the oil breatherfor a provent and plumb accordingly.

4, service the diesel pump, alternator, starter motor (all the external ancilaries)

5, check the pressure/temp sensors for function/accuracy

6, Cant tell from the photos (wrong side of the motor) but consider swapping to the spin-on oil filter if you don't already have it.

not so easy/cheap ones:

7, open up the gearbag and consider a taper-roller bearing conversion if funds allow/wear is evident...

8, really really recommend wacking on a hair dryer, larger exhaust and I/C if funds allow - if you are going down this path, also consider a fuel pump rebuild with bigger pump elements (if possible) and all bio-friendly seals etc. like it or not, bio is going to be a permanent part of the fuel stream we all use sooner or later...