Thread: And ANOTHER County Isuzu conversion

Originally Posted by 110Landy86

Just out of curiosity, why have most people decided to plumb turbo oil return into oil pump cover (requiring tapping etc) rather than into the existing vacuum oil return line which simply requires fitting a 'tee' piece???

Cheers

The vacuum return line isn't big enough to handle both returns. Oil builds up in the turbo and comes out the seals.

JustinC has posted previously about the issue here:
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/isuzu-land...tml#post617334

Steve

Many more hours spent but not many piccy's..

Fitted a Disco handbrake - still has a slight misalignment on the gearbox end so not sure how quickly the cable will chew out. Will see how it goes for now:



When the 200tdi conversion was done in the past they had run 6mm rubber hose all the way from the tank to the engine for the supply, and adapted the original plastic supply line as the return (8mm OD plastic).
Given that the engine pipes on the Isuzu are 10mm OD, I wasn't convinced that the existing lines were going to be big enough - especially once I'd had to stuff around with adapter fittings that only had about 4mm internal diameter to adapt from 6mm to 10mm.
Ended up biting the bullet and replacing them with 10mm OD nylon truck airbrake hose. Excellent fit on the fuel tank fittings and perfect size to match the Isuzu pipes just using a short length of rubber hose as a joiner.
An added bonus was getting rid of half a dozen hose clamps where the original lines had been adapted, joined and extended.

Insulated the firewall with some engine compartment foam from Whitworths Marine. One sheet was enough to do the whole firewall.
Not cheap, but thought hopefully worth it for the spouse happiness factor.
Its a multi layer foam sheet with dense layer in the middle and foil on outside: https://www.whitworths.com.au/main_i...AbsolutePage=1

Used some ducting insulation tape from Bunnings to tape the joins. Its like a mylar tape with a silver surface.
You need to make sure you rub it down well so the adhesive has full contact. Once you've done that it seems to stay stuck down well even in places where there was a bit of tension on it.
Not sure how it will hold up long term, but has a pretty aggressive adhesive, and looks nice and shiny.
Only about $10 for a 50M roll.



Since I've still got plenty of Sikaflex in the tube, I'm wondering if I should clean the sealant out between the windscreen frame and roof, and re-seal it.
Is it worthwhile doing, or is the only way to do properly to remove the roof. If that's the case I'll just leave it for now, as filling it up with Sikaflex will just make it harder to do properly later.
Here's a photo of where I mean:


On the downside, I had my first major stuff-up with the project - while disassembling my turbo to replace the buggered seals.
First turbo I've pulled apart and I forgot about the shaft nut being LH thread.
Surprising how easy it is to shear off the thread on the shaft just using a couple of normal length ring spanners.
So - I now have a nice low K's GT2256V paperweight unless I can find a turbine shaft
Anyone got a spare one lying around



Steve

Originally Posted by steveG

On the downside, I had my first major stuff-up with the project - while disassembling my turbo to replace the buggered seals.
First turbo I've pulled apart and I forgot about the shaft nut being LH thread.
Surprising how easy it is to shear off the thread on the shaft just using a couple of normal length ring spanners.
So - I now have a nice low K's GT2256V paperweight unless I can find a turbine shaft
Anyone got a spare one lying around



Steve

Was that one of those "it wasn't broken but I decided to fix it anyway" moments?

Originally Posted by isuzurover

Was that one of those "it wasn't broken but I decided to fix it anyway" moments?

No, it was already broken (stuffed seals), but now its broken different

It was more like one of those "Dont want to look - please let that not be what I think it is" moments.

Almost too embarrassing to post, but hey - experience gained is proportional to machinery destroyed.
Hopefully someone else will gain from my destruction.

Steve

Originally Posted by steveG

Many more hours spent but not many piccy's..

Fitted a Disco handbrake - still has a slight misalignment on the gearbox end so not sure how quickly the cable will chew out. Will see how it goes for now:

OOHHH i realy like that.

Details, is it just the leaver or backingplate drum etc ?

Originally Posted by 85 county

OOHHH i realy like that.

Details, is it just the leaver or backingplate drum etc ?

Just the lever.
I kept the cable that was connected to the LT230 I removed, as it had a fork end on it and connects nicely to the brake mechanism on the LT95 thats in there now.

The lever end of the outer cable is threaded so I cut the boss off the original bracket and welded it to the bottom of the tube on the disco lever.

Thats it..

Steve

Originally Posted by steveG

Just the lever.
I kept the cable that was connected to the LT230 I removed, as it had a fork end on it and connects nicely to the brake mechanism on the LT95 thats in there now.

The lever end of the outer cable is threaded so I cut the boss off the original bracket and welded it to the bottom of the tube on the disco lever.

Thats it..

Steve

Sounds simple enough i will have a look at doing the same so my left calf dosent become permenently distorted

Oops on the shaft!

Butyl mastic for the windsreen, sikaflex is more of a permanent kinda thing

I see you've already sussed turbo flanges