Fossicker
i rang up british off road today and ask for a price on the A-frame ball joint, one with the grease nipple, a the price was $198.00 !!! does anyone know where to get a cheaper one !?
OldBushie
Do a search there are a few threads on how to install your own nipple? Once the hole is drilled you just put in your nipple and screw it until your happy it's in properly, then you grease it, .........grease it good.Originally Posted by stumpy
I'm sure you can figure it out, I watched a mate do it, then when I worked up the courage (and I buggered my ball joint) I did it myself, you never forget your first time.
RoverLord
unless you have torsion style suspension the bushes play very little roll in controlling body roll. Thats firmly in the prings/shocks/swaybars job description.
heres the killer
IF you set it up for offroad work and you want it to have supple suspension so that it keeps its paws on the ground regardless of orientation its going to roll on corners. if you want to go fast round corners you want it nice and stiff so the rubber stays on the road and the body stays level to ensure a good weight distribution but that means its not going to flex off road its just going to cock its leg over holes.
Unless you want to spend a lot of money re-engineering the suspension and fitting a mass of adjustable bits then the 2 are more or less mutually exclusive options.
so competent 4x4 or sports car...
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
OldBushie
or buy one of each
Swaggie
i recall paying way less than that for an exchange maxi-drive adjustable unit
Master
Reckon you should get it much cheaper than that. Got one a year or so ago for around $60 (greaseable) through the local Land Rover mechanic here in the ACT.
Do a search on ebay with the words rear ball joint and you will find one i just did and there it was for 60 odd dollars the sellers name is roverlordoffroadspares
heres the link
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI....=STRK:MEWAX:IT .
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i had problems with wondering and the steering, that was untill i did all the bushes.
my county is rather soft, quite soft up frount wich is a better setup for clocking up tarmac miles and off road. body roll is not an issue. it is a 110 after all
Master
Be very wary of buying cheap ball joints, I have seen them wear very quickly and come apart! the cheaper 1's have a lot less metal in them. I have found the Lemforder brand available from most reputable parts dealers like Alan at british 4wd's and sean at rover parts plus. These ball joints are around $100 and are the best quality out there, I havent worn 1 out yet!
Master
Boge units pump up to a set height. If the vehicle has 1 fitted it will have softer springs, relying on the boge unit to lift the loaded vehicle back up to its normal height, if its working. County's and Rangy's with std springs and working boge units suffer from alot of body roll. When the boge pumps up its like putting an imovable post in the middle and the soft suspension allowin the body to roll either side. It would have been a much bettre design with 2 boge units helping support the rear. Heavy duty springs and a moderate rate shocker is the answer to body roll. But dont forget to do both ends or else the front will try to dig in as you corner. I have used heavy duty springs on many rangy's and landy's and not had a problem with loss of travel in hard bush work
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