Printable View
Quote:
Originally Posted by flagg
The pot would not actaully be controlled. Vice-Versa. It would be used as feedback for the control.
RPM isn't needed. Vane angle won't be a function of RPM. Will be a function of Load (throttle position (or more technically rack position)) and Current Boost Pressure.
Progress.
Intercooler in. What a job. Much prefer swapping gearboxs in and out....
http://i1195.photobucket.com/albums/...1/IMAG0057.jpg
'Just' have to get ducting from aircleaner-turbo-intercooler-inlet manifold. Return oil fitting/hose made up. Turbo bolted on. Exhaust. Then control system.
If practical/possible with your control system:Quote:
Originally Posted by the_grubb
Open the vanes when power is not required to reduce the pressure in the exhaust manifold (EMP), and hence pumping losses.
Close the vanes to assist braking.
Also fully cycle the vanes regularly (eg at start-up) to avoid soot build-up binding the vanes.
how thick is your i/c? did u have to move your radiator back to fit it in? it must have been tight running the lines above your lights? any more pics of the mounts, lines, etc?
IC 75mm thick - I believe it is a stock Supra S13 IC. Rad back 40mm. Yes was tight running above lights - but comes out at a nice height to link up to turbo and inlet manifold. It looked even tighter if I had of run it below the headlights.Quote:
Originally Posted by def-90
Will get some pics.
Ok kool, mine is 600x300 and couldnt get yhe lines to run above the lights, i couldn't mount it high enough because of the bonnet shutting mechanism was in yhe way, still had to do a fair bit of surgery to get it to fit running below the lights
Finally got this installed - minus any control system (other than a manual switch that either opens or closes the vanes for me to play with)
The outlet on turbine is only 2 1/4in and I am a bit dissapointed with the outcome from the exhuast shop but none the less....
With no mods to the pump I was hitting about 13psi and 460c with vanes closed.
With fuel screw wound right out. I get about 20psi (the gauge I had lying about only goes to 15psi so this is a guesstimate. Not sure if the needle bottoms out there or its in fact where it is) and 560C with vanes closed.
I will continue to play :)
And it looks like bigger than 60mm wheels are avialable now for VNT turbos.:)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...012/05/775.jpg
Diesel Tuning and Performance forums - Turbo Diesel Owners Club • View topic - Compressor Wheels.... small, Medium, LARGE and DMB
This is from the same guy in the UK who fitted a 56mm compressor wheel into a GT1849V for my work car (another project).
From the left is 49mm VW wheel, 56mm, biggest garrett 60mm and the TDI Turbos DMB on the right at 64mm OD, 49.6mm intake.
How would a monster wheel like that feature in regard to the known issue of breakage of the small diameter shafts in VNT's?
I know there are some different diameter shafts, so are those wheels only for the larger diameter ones?
Steve
It would be wise to get a straight shaft installed at the same time. The straight shaft doesn't have the thin weak section in the middle. Slender shaft is the official term for the skinny and weak ones. I have no idea what garrett were thinking with the slender shaft. They are 100,000km max life and destroy everything when they go.Quote:
Originally Posted by steveG
The guy who sells these built me a custom GT1856V with the straight shaft and 56mm wheel with the smallest trim available. The idea being to maximise low end torque.