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Thread: Isuzuing around Australia.

  1. #1
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    Isuzuing around Australia.

    Hey guys, I have been posting in the Projects and tutorails area and have some pictures of the interior build up for our cape york and round Australia trip. But want to ask some more Isuzu specific questions.

    Mainly what should my check list for the 4bd1 and LT95 consist of?

    I will be sending her to the mechanics for a suspected rear main seal, she leaks rather badly and I will get them to run an eye over the box at the same time and also check the valve clearances.

    Doing cape york means the vehicle will be doing more than one decent swim. Is there anything worth doing to extra safe guard my engine/fuel lines from water.

    Thankyou in advance for any advice.

  2. #2
    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is offline RoverLord Silver Subscriber
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    Your rear main seal leak - you might note that I had what seemed to be such a leak. Turned out to be a very minor main seal leak, just enough to blacken the gearbox oil leaking from the warped cover plate on the gearbox oil pump. Get that checked as well. It is definitely too much work to pull the engine or gearbox out and then find you have to do it again! (Been there, done that)

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
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  3. #3
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    If doing the normal run to the Cape the only real deep rivers are the Jardine & Wenlock which now both have ferries I think. The other possibility is the Pascoe River if going on the Frenchmans Track.
    L322 tdv8 poverty pack - wow
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  4. #4
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    Hi guys,

    I'd make sure you have a wading plug for your bell housing to fit before river crossings to stop any water getting in the clutch. Make sure all your diff and gear box breathers are fixed properly to your diffs/gear box and don't leak. Fill every moving thing with a grease nipple with marine grease. Make sure your air cleaner/snorkel (you do have a snorkel right?) rubber bits are sealed properly before any sub-landrovering.

    Also any shock absorber that you have ANY doubt about should be replaced or at least carry a spare for the front and back (landy's are nasty to drive loaded with a shock missing). Good quality A/T tyres. Change fuel filters (inluding cleaning out the little strainer on the bottom of the fuel pump) as you might experience 'different' quality's of fuel.

    I know its probably all common sense but I just thaught i'd put it out there. I hope you enjoy your trip. Don't forget a good camera!!!

    Cheers,
    Brian

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by goanna_shire View Post
    Hi guys,

    I'd make sure you have a wading plug for your bell housing to fit before river crossings to stop any water getting in the clutch. Make sure all your diff and gear box breathers are fixed properly to your diffs/gear box and don't leak. Fill every moving thing with a grease nipple with marine grease. Make sure your air cleaner/snorkel (you do have a snorkel right?) rubber bits are sealed properly before any sub-landrovering.

    Also any shock absorber that you have ANY doubt about should be replaced or at least carry a spare for the front and back (landy's are nasty to drive loaded with a shock missing). Good quality A/T tyres. Change fuel filters (inluding cleaning out the little strainer on the bottom of the fuel pump) as you might experience 'different' quality's of fuel.


    I know its probably all common sense but I just thaught i'd put it out there. I hope you enjoy your trip. Don't forget a good camera!!!

    Cheers,
    Brian
    Awesome post,
    this is exactly the sort of thing im after EXACTLY!!!!!!

  6. #6
    85 county is offline AULRO Holiday Reward Points Winner!
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    put an off switch on the motor off actuator. so she cant shut down on you

  7. #7
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    Maybe remove the actuator completely and fit a push on / pull off cable. .
    Also, the same oil leak that John experienced made me worry about rear main seal, but it turned out to be trans front seal. My engine had done 550K and there was still dust around the seal area
    All the above from Goanna shires' post and dont skimp on shocks.

    JC

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    Mine has a pull-to-stop-engine cable, Cheyne R has converted his as well. Used a bonnet release handle and one of the spare holes on the right side of the steering column. Works a treat and if it breaks, you get another bicycle brake/bowden cable to fix it, or a bit of fishing line/string will do the job till you get the bike cable.

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    I had mine rigged as manual cable shut off when I was having trouble keeping water out of the soleniod. I hated it, it really made the vehicle feel like farm equipment. I like the little creature comfort of having it stop at the turn of the key. Though if it is going to be an advance in reliabilty I will seriously consider my options.

    Thanks guys, all this food for thought is wonderful.

  10. #10
    85 county is offline AULRO Holiday Reward Points Winner!
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    I had the impression that a manual shut off was illegal

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