Thread: 4BD1 Rebuilder

Sounds like it's time to fire up the forum search engine

Take a ton of photos of your engine, then start searching on here for differences in turbo vs non-turbo, as well as truck vs Land Rover applications. There is a massive amount of information to read through on here and you'll probably dig up as many questions as answers. People will need to know a lot more about your engine before they can give specific answers.

For a start, where did you get the engine, what did it come out of and what year was it made?

The timing cover is an easy swap,find one out of any 4B series engine as long as the hump for the injection pump is there.
The engine can be built to either N/A or turbo spec without too much trouble.
As mentioned above give us more info about the engine you have.

Cheers Eric

Here are pics of the engine. Dont know what year it is but the s,no is 117771 and the gear box must be a 5G as it had 10 turns out to 16 turns of input shaft.
Didiman

Looks like an early truck engine, the year can be determined by the first 2 numbers which are cast into the block between the engine mount and the oil filter.That motor shares a lot of external parts with the land rover ones,I think you'll find the right hand engine mount is the same but the left one will need to be modified to suit the land rover chassis.
Fit a different oil filter for driveshaft clearance and either notch the chassis for the starter motor or find one that hugs the engine.

Well had a good day today. Fitted a 24v starter, pulled the plugs and got compression reading of 450 psi no 1
420 2
420 3
425 4.
This is cold with a bit of oil squirted down the holes.
Engine was sold to me cheap as wouldnt go. no fuel pressure etc.They said the IP was nackered.
Pressures dont seem to shabby but I dont have figures.
Hooked up a jerry can and couldnt prime. Pulled pipes off and found a little strainer at bottom of priming pump was completely blocked.
Cleaned all out, pump primed up, cracked an injector, screwdriver between the terminals on the starter and away she went.
Maybe I wont rebuild after all.
Any thoughts on compression?
Think it would be OK to turbo?

Didiman

Mud wasps in the inlet pipe!!??

I think 440 psi at 200 rpm is factory. So you are pretty close.

Sounds like a rebuild isn't needed. Just add the bits you need and whack a turbo on.

With oil in the cylinders I'd say you have proved that the valves and head gasket seal is ok. I suspect that after a couple of turns on the starter the rings would be cleared of excess oil and you would get a better indication of the ring seal.