Swaggie
External aerodynamics is completely different to pipe flow. Btw - the dimpling only makes a difference to drag in a very small region of Re.Originally Posted by c.h.i.e.f
i was hoping that you commented on this isuzuroveri found it quite strange that a rough surface would flow better too but then it rambled on about the design of a golf ball etc etc but obviously i should not take notice of this info then....why i was looking into intakes was i was wondering if there was any gains to be had from a new intake design such as the "banks big hoss" but i cannot see it being worth the effort for the gains?
http://www.grc.nasa.gov/WWW/k-12/air...dragsphere.jpg
Cd is drag coefficient, Re is Reynolds number.
TopicToaster
SubscriberI recently fitted a 3" stainless snorkel to mine, and some corrugated ducting to connect it to the filter inlet.
I've noticed that I'm now getting the service indicator popping occasionally - which never used to happen before the snorkel was fitted.
I keep meaning to disconnect the ducting and run it how it was originally again to prove if its actually the snorkel/ducting causing it (and not just coincidental with the filter getting a bit old), but haven't got around to it.
Steve
Wizard
The equations you have posted prove it for me! and when thinking more into it is obvious that a rough surface creates more friction otherwise F1 cars and aircraft would have rough surfaces/paint and they dont
steve it will be interesting to see your results as my compressor inlet is now 4" and as said before the inlet on the airbox is 3" so i dont know if i should step down to 3" straight away or make the whole system 4" i dont know...
TopicToaster
SubscriberHow about getting some clear tube and making up a water manometer to take some pressure readings at different points in your inlet ducting.
That way you'd have some real measurements and have something to compare any mods with.
Steve
Swaggie
Or just buy one of these: https://gastools.com.au/shop/index.p...od&productId=7
ForumSage
Just be really careful about your pressure range first. You don't want to suck all the water out of the manometer and hydraulic your engine.
TopicToaster
SubscriberPut a small orifice in the tube that goes to the intake. That way if you get it wrong you just move to test scenario #2 - water injection.Just be really careful about your pressure range first. You don't want to suck all the water out of the manometer and hydraulic your engine.
Steve
Wizard
Was just wondering if anyone knows what would be best stainless tubing or alloy tubing ? Was thinking of going alloy because stainless holds heat for longer and alloy disipates it quicker from what I gather although im not sure so any metal thermal experts out there ? (I don't know the technical name for them
AT REST
I've seen some alloy intake tube, it's terrible thin and easy to dent, I'd rather use plastic down pipeWas just wondering if anyone knows what would be best stainless tubing or alloy tubing ? Was thinking of going alloy because stainless holds heat for longer and alloy disipates it quicker from what I gather although im not sure so any metal thermal experts out there ? (I don't know the technical name for them
Stainless is slow at conducting heat so actually insulates the air from the environment to a small degree.
Swaggie
If you have an intercooler, then heat loss through the (other) piping will be insignificant.
In a non-intercooled system and assuming the temperature of the air produced by the turbocharger is higher than ambient temp, then aluminium would have a minor advantage.
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