c.h.i.e.f 's 110 Isuzu county

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Originally Posted by Dougal

Sounds bloody good Matt. What aircleaner and exhaust setup are you running to create such a whistle?

How is the boost and smoke?

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Thanks !!! Sorry dougal I didn't mention this was taken whilst running the gt2052s and maxed fuel with retarded timing...it gave a higher max boost pressure (as you would know) but I did find it quite smokey for "longer" but once boost was high enough it was fine, it also blew white smoke at idle but no problems starting in the cold (note cold here is 5*c compared to your shivering temps) but with it advanced the snappiness was considerably more and was nicer to drive for what I do with it...the air cleaner is factory Donaldson with the hose poking out the vent just so it wasn't sucking from engine bay (no snorkel :() I manufactured a 3" straight through that if I must say so myself is about as free flowing you can get at the dump of a td5 turbo...front mount intercooler was doing its job but didn't have any before and after temps of the intercooler at that stage...
That was with 33's in dry and was loosing traction once going around corner and retarded but if advanced and in dry it will start to break traction without cornering if in wet condition 3rd gear and low revs plant foot it will completely loose traction in straight line however under steer occurs if I don't hold it straight..
This was only experimental setup but now as you would know is under the knife and getting a more suitable arrangement (hence new turbo etc etc)


Ps: I still haven't got those measurements but I have not forgotten about it ;)

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Originally Posted by c.h.i.e.f

Thanks for this...any help or info you can provide on anything is always welcome....
So in regards to stiffness would it only be applicable to the engine mounts or all the mounts (gearbox and transfer)... So engine mounts can reduce the vibration but how much compared to extra inertia on the flywheel I wonder...

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It would be all the mounts, there is no isolation between the engine/gear box/transfer so you would treat it as a lump mass.
The primary job of the engine mounts (other than attaching the engine to the chassis) is to minimise/control vibration transfer to the chassis, as far as i was a aware the primary function of the flywheel is to 'iron out' the pulses of power you get from an IC engine, however i THINK the engine inertia is also used to absorb vibrations from the suspension/road conditions. ;)

Modern car manufacturers go to great lengths to tune their engine mounts, i came accross all kinds of high-tech desigins when i was researching it at the time.

It might be worth sitting with the car in neutral and slowly going up throught the rev range to see what rpm you are getting resonance (high vibrations) and even trying to see what the vibration mode is (up and down, side to side, back and forth, (x,y,z) or role, pitch or yaw). Most likely it will be up and down, or pitch (front of engine/gb assembly goes up at the same time as back goes down). If you can hold the rpm at the point it vibrates you might be able to place you hand at different points on the chassis and narrow it to a particular mount or pair of mounts that are the ones not doing their job and transfering all the vibration to the chassis!

I have quite a bit of resonance through my mounts, factory Isuzu ones. When I was entertaining the original conversion in the Rangie, I purchased a pair of Td5 hydraulic mounts including their relevant chassis bits, but decided the Td5 engine was quite a bit lighter than the Isuzu, so went with the OE ones. I am convinced that some research into marine engine mountings for 350KG engines would yield some useful results, but at the time I had no time so in went to OE mountings:(


JC

When I did my conversion, I found that there was a lot of difference between aftermarket mounts (I think from Don Kyatt) and genuine LR sourced ones. The Landy ones were much a much softer rubber compound, and I could flex the rubber slightly by pushing my thumb into it. No way I could do it on the aftermarket ones.
I didn't have access to any genuine Isuzu ones to compare.

Steve

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Originally Posted by Jitterbug

It might be worth sitting with the car in neutral and slowly going up throught the rev range to see what rpm you are getting resonance (high vibrations) and even trying to see what the vibration mode is (up and down, side to side, back and forth, (x,y,z) or role, pitch or yaw). Most likely it will be up and down, or pitch (front of engine/gb assembly goes up at the same time as back goes down). If you can hold the rpm at the point it vibrates you might be able to place you hand at different points on the chassis and narrow it to a particular mount or pair of mounts that are the ones not doing their job and transfering all the vibration to the chassis!

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In my case, I have no unloaded vibration problems. I've got vibration at high torque at low engine speeds and I also have a vertical secondary effect from the engine bouncing up and down after a running through a G-out onroad.

I'm planning to flatten out the V of my engine mounts to give more vertical stiffness to stop the second problem. The first I'm still banking on an inertia ring.

I never had problems with the R380/LT230 combo. It's only since fitting the MSA/LT230 combo. I had to modify my trans mounts and notch my crossmember to make it fit. I have double checked the distance that the brake drum needs to be from the R/H chassis rail etc.

I am running brand new Isuzu engine mounts with rover trans mounts. Yet I have a bad vibration on static acceleration around 2000 - 2500.

I truly think it must be the lighter truck flywheel and possibly a lighter clutch. I was going to modify the trans mounts to run horizontal truck engine mounts, but frankly I a bit over the whole thing.

J

LR changed the mounts from what Isuzu use. the RH side is longer (further from block) and the LH side is angled steeper and closer to the block.

I like the hydrolastic mounts like those used on for the TD5. Lord is one manufacturer, but they are expensive. I would be tempted to try TD5 mounts.

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Originally Posted by DRanged

I was going to modify the trans mounts to run horizontal truck engine mounts, but frankly I a bit over the whole thing.

J

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The truck mounts aren't horizontal, they are also angled on a V. I have access to an NPR here, but the engine gets in the way of measuring the included angle.
One of the Isuzu industrial drawings shows a V angle on the engine mounts of 100 deg internal (40deg from horizontal each side). Picture attached.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

In comparison the V8 mounts which I am using are 60deg internal V (60 deg from horizontal each side). I would flatten my mounts out by 20deg each.

I have mixed experience with liquid filled mounts. I had major axle tramp issues on my work car which were caused by a liquid filled mount being too soft. After much agonising last week I removed it, drilled drain holes through, preloaded it and pumped it full of 3M fast curing black urethane. All axle tramp is now gone.
Another nissan I have which runs a similar engine has active engine mounts front and rear. Being a used japanese import I can find no information on them. I am not curious enough to cut one open.

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Originally Posted by Dougal

The truck mounts aren't horizontal, they are also angled on a V. I have access to an NPR here, but the engine gets in the way of measuring the included angle.
One of the Isuzu industrial drawings shows a V angle on the engine mounts of 100 deg internal (40deg from horizontal each side). Picture attached.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment...1&d=1349479851

In comparison the V8 mounts which I am using are 60deg internal V (60 deg from horizontal each side). I would flatten my mounts out by 20deg each.

I have mixed experience with liquid filled mounts. I had major axle tramp issues on my work car which were caused by a liquid filled mount being too soft. After much agonising last week I removed it, drilled drain holes through, preloaded it and pumped it full of 3M fast curing black urethane. All axle tramp is now gone.
Another nissan I have which runs a similar engine has active engine mounts front and rear. Being a used japanese import I can find no information on them. I am not curious enough to cut one open.

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Isuzu mount the tranmission on horizontal mounts, I thought that was what Justin was thinking of - using truck engine mounts, in a horizontal position for the transmission.

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Originally Posted by Bush65

Isuzu mount the tranmission on horizontal mounts, I thought that was what Justin was thinking of - using truck engine mounts, in a horizontal position for the transmission.

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Absolutly correct mate. I was going to use some good s/h engine mounts they are sitting in the shed waiting for a job.

Justin