Thread: Grasping at straws!!!

i dont think anyone on here has had much to do witht he 6bd1 motors although i have asked the question about using rebuild kits from the 6bd1 motors on the 4bd1 motors as they should be the same just 2 more cylinders as you said...
just remember there is 4bg1 & 4bd1, 6bg1 & 6bd1 so be carefull

Diameters are in the PDF manuals, have you checked them?

Whilst on the topic of bearings I have a lot of people saying to check "bearing crush" otherwise the motor will be worthless... Righto here's my thoughts:

1.take a standard 4bd1t crank , it's nitrided and the diameter of the bearing surface is of a set size that cannot be altered (ground) as it will then have no nitriding left.

2.bearing caps are standard and have no faults or obvious squishing or mushrooming.

3.The correct bearing size is selected which i would select standard size bearings as the crank and everything else is at factory specs.

4.from what I can gather they say to assemble everything as per normal and use the measuring strips and check crush ??

My problem with this is why bother ? When everything is at factory spec and once you tighten the bolts it is not the best to keep tightening and un-tightening the bolts especially if the bolts happen to be torque to yield and also if the correct measurements are made before hand how the hell can the 2 surfaces (say main cap and block) squish enough to make a difference anyways ?

Someone may be able to inform me on there experiences ?

I have never bothered either. But I have always been replacing shells in factory unaltered surfaces.
If you have replaced or machined either part, it becomes quite important.

Hello there,
l was wondering about using 6b bearings because they're the same size but do not have the oil groove on the bottom half. Thought it might help with oil pressure. As it happens you've touched on one of my problems in your replies. l had the crank ground before l got a workshop manual and then found out it should'nt be reground. Bit of a mistake! But having spoken to the world and his brother it seems that a 25 thou' grind would'nt go through the nitriding plus if l had it done again the crank might need straightening (cure one problem, create another). Anyway its stripped down again, l keep walking into the workshop, glaring at the block hoping for a "eureka" moment when l notice a plug not screwed in or some other reason for no oil pressure on start up. As it happens l took the crank to an engine shop to have it checked (again!) and it checks out ok. So l'm hoping to find something wrong. lf l cant l'll put it together and stick it in a corner. Good news, l think l've bought a 300tdi disco. So that will go in the 130.

Cheers.

Originally Posted by Dougal

I have never bothered either. But I have always been replacing shells in factory unaltered surfaces.
If you have replaced or machined either part, it becomes quite important.

Exactly what I was thinking if nothing has been touched and everything is at factory spec just replace parts with standard size parts....mind you I mainly hear it from people with petrol engines that love nothing more than touching things that do not need touching

Originally Posted by vllage idiot

Hello there,
l was wondering about using 6b bearings because they're the same size but do not have the oil groove on the bottom half. Thought it might help with oil pressure. As it happens you've touched on one of my problems in your replies. l had the crank ground before l got a workshop manual and then found out it should'nt be reground. Bit of a mistake! But having spoken to the world and his brother it seems that a 25 thou' grind would'nt go through the nitriding plus if l had it done again the crank might need straightening (cure one problem, create another). Anyway its stripped down again, l keep walking into the workshop, glaring at the block hoping for a "eureka" moment when l notice a plug not screwed in or some other reason for no oil pressure on start up. As it happens l took the crank to an engine shop to have it checked (again!) and it checks out ok. So l'm hoping to find something wrong. lf l cant l'll put it together and stick it in a corner. Good news, l think l've bought a 300tdi disco. So that will go in the 130.

Cheers.

Depending on what type of motor you have depends if you have nitriding or not... personally I would not ever bother getting the crank ground unless it really needs it !! If it is a nitrided crank and has been ground no matter what depth it defeats the purpose..if you are removing a 4bd1 to replace with a 300tdi I wouldn't be overly excited..

Oh dear, that bad is it? Mindyou, it must be better than a 4x4 home for mice and birds!