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ditto here, all my oil from the bellhousing is from a pump housing leak. when i removed the engine from the rangie to fit it all into the 110, i checked behind the flywheel to find just dust:D, at 570K no rear main leaks:):) will fix this leak when the bigger clutch goes in.Quote:
Originally Posted by JDNSW
jc
Mine is leaking from right at the front of the housing and I have got some serious clutch shudder so i assumed it was a rear main. Is it possible for the gearbox to leak on the clutch causing clutch shudder? I guess I will find out when I remove the engine and box.Quote:
Originally Posted by justinc
And loctite the bolts on the pump cover too when you refit them as they are prone to coming loose.Quote:
Originally Posted by JDNSW
Part numbers for the type of seal I used are in a photo in this thread: http://www.aulro.com/afvb/isuzu-land...ml#post1352548
Steve
Well i have emailed a few bearing places about the rear main and throwout bearing and this is the first reply.
Can offer a seal 100x135x12 TC12692 $28.90 each nett ( standard nitrile seal)
I have no listing on the bearing part number. We will need to see a sample to assist in identifying.
These are the numbers I gave him.
Seal Part Numbers (all the same seal)
ISUZU PN: 1-09625402-0
GM PN: 94050718
NOK BHO652F
\"Seal: Oil, CR/SH\"
F7C3 is also written on the packet in pen.
Bearing Part Number
FKC 7/W 1 13/16
I am assuming the seal he mentioned doesn't include the wear sleeve. Being a standard nitrile seal it should be appropriate for the job but are the dimensions correct, 100mm id, 135mm od and 12mm deep? Sounds correct to me.
Quote:
Originally Posted by isuzuscott
Scott,
My parts book says 100 X 135 X 14 not 12.....Brian
Without detracting from the focus of this tread...
The clutch in my 4BD1T powered 110 slips big time, predominantly in 4th and 5th, if I 'plant' it (obviously slippage is amplified if climbing at the time). This has been happening for a while and I drive accordingly to minimize damage and prolong life. I note that for a while now, I've had next to no travel on the clutch pedal i.e. slightly pressing on the clutch pedal results in clutch disengaging/ engaging.
Some 6 months back I removed the drain plug from the bell housing after being told to do so by my landy mechanic. Initially some oily-water fluid drained from the plug. Since then the plug hole is dry on inspection. Hardly any residual.
So my question...Is the slippage likely to be due to oil on to the clutch (from either gearbox or rear main) or more likely to be attributed to actual clutch wear?? Also, if it were due to oil, would I expect to see oil draining from the bell housing?
Appreciate your response.
Thanks Joe.
Slippage could be from oil on the clutch, although as you say, you would expect to see oil from the wading plug (which, incidentally, should be checked every service!).Quote:
Originally Posted by 110Landy86
But if there is no free play on the pedal before it starts to release, this suggests that the problem may be in the clutch linkage, specifically, incorrect free play on the pedal - if the pedal is not allowing the piston in the master cylinder to fully return, this will mean the hydraulic circuit is remaining pressurised, which will lead to slipping, so check this first.
But the clutch releasing as soon as pressure is applied to the pedal is also a symptom of a worn plate, and this would be the diagnosis once the pedal free play is checked.
Hope this helps,
John
In my experience clutch slippage in higher gears has always been a worn clutch. Of course could be something else but each time it has happened to me it has been a worn clutch.
Garry
I am about to install a turbo to the isuzu after a new clutch so hopefully I don't get any slipping. I will let you know.
I got a rear main seal from Brisbane Isuzu for the 4be1. Part # is 1096253200
I understand after talking to a few people and thanks to JDNSW post I think it may be the oil pump cover leaking down the front shaft onto the clutch causing my shudder.
Whatever it is I will find out on the 24th this month when both the datto and escort come up to the garage and the county goes down to the shed.
Rightio, I got the engine out yesterday and found a few things out.
Good timing as I lost clutch pedal that morning which made getting the car down the back a bit difficult. Too stop I had to turn the car off.
First thing I found out is that the throw out bearing is totally rooted. It has siezed up and has worn a groove into the clutch fingers.
Because of this, the throwout now freely spins on the plastic carrier. May need to turn up an apadtor to fit to the carrier and the bearing, like rijidij or just make a new carrier all together.
As for the rear main seal I don't know yet, still need to get the countersunk bolts out of the adaptor plate. Any one got some good tips on this one, I don't want to strip them and they are in there bloody tight.
At idle there was a rattling noise, believe it was the fork on the pivot, what is the best way to stop this rattle?
Fortunately there is no oil in the bell housing, the oil pump cover isn't leaking and the rear main, from what I can see is not leaking either.
Thanks in advance.