Thread: LT95 and Rear Main

Originally Posted by isuzuscott

Gday,

My rear main let go a while back which is not a rare thing for the isuzu I have heard and inevitably rooted the clutch.

I also have a chattering noise when the clutch pedal is off, so I assuming the front shaft bearing or clutch fork or something. Not the throwout bearing.

Anyway I am planning on do the work myself and want to know if anyone has any good tips for dropping out the LT95 and replacing the clutch and rear main in the 4be1.

I have read that it will be isuzu pressure plate. What about spigot bearing and throwout bearing, will they be LR parts?

Any recommendations to get clutch parts in Northside Birsbane area?

Any info is appreciated.

It is 4be1 isuzu county 1985 by the way. Referred to as clyde.

cheers,

Scott

G'day Scott,
There are 2 ways to do this. Which way you go depends whether you have access to a hoist or engine crane. If you can put it on a hoist remove the gearbox and change it out. If you don't and have an engine crane it is easier to pull the motor to do the job. Things like the aircon compressor (if you have a/c) can be unbolted and pulled out of the way. The throwout bearing and spigot bearing bush are both LR part numbers and I would imagine MR Automotive in Redcliffe would stock them. Part numbers are
AYG3339 for the throwout and 549911 for the spigot bush.
A bit of chattering at idle is pretty normal for the Isuzu, most probably the clutch release fork rattling but it also could be the clutch fork pivot post. These have a habit of coming loose and can produce a rattling noise. When you have the box out there is a mod you can do to correct this. basically drill a hole through the housing and pin where it fits in and loctite it and put a roll pin through it. Another way is to drill the hole that the pivot fits into right through and weld a threaded bolt shank onto the original pin. Then you can loctite it and use a nyloc locknut on the end of it. Have you got the rear main seal yet. There are 2 types available a standard one and a new type one. Get back to me if you need the part numbers for them. If you can't get any of the parts you need give me a call as I am pretty sure I have all of them here. Hope Clyde feels a bit better after all this work

There are 3 types of rear main that I know of.
1. Original
2. A two piece seal/wear ring type that is assembled as one unit
3. A genuine Isuzu thick wear ring to fit on the crank and a larger seal to suit.

I put the wear ring and larger seal on mine when I did it. Only done 15K kms since I fitted it but no dramas so far.

Steve

Originally Posted by Bearman

G'day Scott,
There are 2 ways to do this. Which way you go depends whether you have access to a hoist or engine crane. If you can put it on a hoist remove the gearbox and change it out. If you don't and have an engine crane it is easier to pull the motor to do the job. Things like the aircon compressor (if you have a/c) can be unbolted and pulled out of the way. The throwout bearing and spigot bearing bush are both LR part numbers and I would imagine MR Automotive in Redcliffe would stock them. Part numbers are
AYG3339 for the throwout and 549911 for the spigot bush.
A bit of chattering at idle is pretty normal for the Isuzu, most probably the clutch release fork rattling but it also could be the clutch fork pivot post. These have a habit of coming loose and can produce a rattling noise. When you have the box out there is a mod you can do to correct this. basically drill a hole through the housing and pin where it fits in and loctite it and put a roll pin through it. Another way is to drill the hole that the pivot fits into right through and weld a threaded bolt shank onto the original pin. Then you can loctite it and use a nyloc locknut on the end of it. Have you got the rear main seal yet. There are 2 types available a standard one and a new type one. Get back to me if you need the part numbers for them. If you can't get any of the parts you need give me a call as I am pretty sure I have all of them here. Hope Clyde feels a bit better after all this work

Beauty. Thanks a lot for the info Brian. I do have access to an engine hoist to remove the engine but I assumed that dropping out the box would be easier. I don't have a car hoist. Is it possible to jack up the car and drop the box out onto some trolley jacks to slide it out. Which option is easier?

I haven't got the rear main yet. Was planning to drop out the box, get all the part numbers, then order them all. If you have the part numbers for the rear main that would be tops? I assume the 4be1 rear main it is the same as a 4bd1.

Originally Posted by steveG

There are 3 types of rear main that I know of.
1. Original
2. A two piece seal/wear ring type that is assembled as one unit
3. A genuine Isuzu thick wear ring to fit on the crank and a larger seal to suit.

I put the wear ring and larger seal on mine when I did it. Only done 15K kms since I fitted it but no dramas so far.

Steve

Is there much difference in price between each seal? Anything will better than the current one I feel.

If you don't have to work on the box it is easier to remove the engine to do the clutch/main seal. Believe me it's not a pleasant job on your back with little room to move. Also you would need a trolley jack with a cradle to lower the transmission after you have unbolted it and moved it back a bit. With the engine removal it's remove radiator/shroud and hoses, ps lines (if fitted),fuel lines, accelerator and stop cables, intake air hose, electrical connections, exhaust pipe, A/C compressor (if fitted). I am not 100% sure if the rear main seals are the same as 4BD1. Someone else here may be able to confirm that. If they are the same the numbers for the 2 I know of are
1.....Standard double lipped seal......................1096254020
2.....2 piece seal (later type)...........................GM94050718 Somewhere I have a SKF number for this type but cannot find it atm. Hope this helps.

Originally Posted by Bearman

If you don't have to work on the box it is easier to remove the engine to do the clutch/main seal. Believe me it's not a pleasant job on your back with little room to move. Also you would need a trolley jack with a cradle to lower the transmission after you have unbolted it and moved it back a bit. With the engine removal it's remove radiator/shroud and hoses, ps lines (if fitted),fuel lines, accelerator and stop cables, intake air hose, electrical connections, exhaust pipe, A/C compressor (if fitted). I am not 100% sure if the rear main seals are the same as 4BD1. Someone else here may be able to confirm that. If they are the same the numbers for the 2 I know of are
1.....Standard double lipped seal......................1096254020
2.....2 piece seal (later type)...........................GM94050718 Somewhere I have a SKF number for this type but cannot find it atm. Hope this helps.

Gee, sounds like a quick job!

I have already disconnected the air con as I don't want it. When I think about there isn't much to really pull off. Looks like an engine out job then.

I have read about the throwout bearing for the isuzu's. The cheapest option is to purchase the bearing from ya normal bearing shop and turn up a sleeve/spacer or use the exisiting one if there is one. Otherwise it is $220 for a new throwout bearing. Is this correct?

Appreciate all the info Brian.

Originally Posted by isuzuscott

Gee, sounds like a quick job!

I have already disconnected the air con as I don't want it. When I think about there isn't much to really pull off. Looks like an engine out job then.

I have read about the throwout bearing for the isuzu's. The cheapest option is to purchase the bearing from ya normal bearing shop and turn up a sleeve/spacer or use the exisiting one if there is one. Otherwise it is $220 for a new throwout bearing. Is this correct?

Appreciate all the info Brian.

Just did the clutch in mine, though I have the 5 speed - I think it's the same in the 4 speed??? No bearing shop I rang could supply the correct bearing. Karcraft in Sydney could supply the bearing and was less than $50 from memory.
The bearing and carrier I used ended up coming in the kit (Exedy) which was around $400, including the throwout bearing and carrier, pressure plate and clutch plate. Spigot bush should cost you less than $10.
I had the gearbox out already, and it wasn't too bad to do it that way. Haven't taken the engine out so cant say which is easier.
As for the crankshaft seal, I used the 3rd option that STEVEG suggested. Went in without any trouble. I did warm the wear sleeve first in the oven to make it fit a bit easier. While you're at it, check your input seal on the gearbox isn't leaking also.

Originally Posted by isuzuscott

Gee, sounds like a quick job!

I have already disconnected the air con as I don't want it. When I think about there isn't much to really pull off. Looks like an engine out job then.

I have read about the throwout bearing for the isuzu's. The cheapest option is to purchase the bearing from ya normal bearing shop and turn up a sleeve/spacer or use the exisiting one if there is one. Otherwise it is $220 for a new throwout bearing. Is this correct?

Appreciate all the info Brian.

The throwout bearing is FKC 7/W 1 13/16 and are still available for around $40. I recently bought a couple at Statewide bearings. Make sure your old plastic sleeve is not brittle then press the old off and the new one on. Your old bearing should have the sleeve on it. Would you still have the a/c compressor brackets, adjuster pulley and the double pulley that bolts onto the crankshaft pulley- I am after a set if you want to sell them.