Not sure if a cooling sump is required, but you can buy one from roverdrive (see link)
Global Roamer Corporation
HTH
Bojan
I tried a search but I seem to be a numpty( no offence Numpty)in that area.
I am certain I read a post about the heat build up in a County cab and in particular the heat coming off the LT95 combination.
I'm sure I read in that post that it was possible to buy an extended sump that had external cooling fins.
Any ideas on if that is correct and where to get one
Not sure if a cooling sump is required, but you can buy one from roverdrive (see link)
Global Roamer Corporation
HTH
Bojan
Looks that way Steve
Thanks anyway Boj
Spoke to a long time LR expert here in Vic who knows his stuff and he says they were made but he hadn't seen one for a long time
Marks 4wd Adaptors may have made them?
Maybe I just beef up the heat proofing under the seats![]()
AFAIK steveG is correct it is only the lt230 ... you are probably referring to these threads ...
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/projects-t...tion-mods.html
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/technical-...d-lt230-2.html
Mine is also hot in that region but I do not drive much
Pete,
Rare as Rocking Horse poo !!
Marks adaptors made them-- looong time ago.
I'll post up a pic of mine if it will make you go green with envy..
( it's on the Chev Tray, not the Isuzu though)
Still gets unbearably hot in the cabin though. I recall visiting Toorak Tractors some years ago & he was modding a 110 & getting a better airflow thru down there. He was opening up the inner front guards from memory.
David
Get some pool hose and a couple of those rectangular to round storm water adaptors, mount the square to rounds under the front bumper and run the hose to the top of the bell housing each side. Presto, air cooled transmission hump. costs bugger all.
URSUSMAJOR
Exactly what my racing car mate said.
" Get some air moving over the hot bits stoopid. Best form of free cooling available"
I know it feels as if the heat is coming off the transmission, but I strongly suspect that most of the heat actually comes from the engine - the hot air from the engine is pretty much channelled alongside and over the gearbox by airflow blocker called a gearbox crossmember. Some air goes below it, but most of the hot air, preheated by the radiator, heated by the external surfaces of the head and block, and superheated by the exhaust manifold, is confined by the bonnet, inner mudguards, chassis, and sideways sump extension (especially on the left) to flow through the gap either side of the bell housing and between the gearbox and the floor/transmission tunnel.
If you think about it for a moment, of the energy from burning fuel, about 25% is converted to mechanical energy, of which only 1-2% is lost as heat in the gearbox. The remaining 75% remains as heat and is transferred by the cooling system to the air flowing past the gearbox, except for a relatively small proportion that is still retained in the exhaust.
This strongly suggests that improved gearbox cooling will not have a noticeable effect on the floor temperature! (It might help the gearbox though, as the 'cooling' airflow round the top and sides of the gearbox is probably above coolant temperature in hot weather)
As suggested, managing airflow is likely to give better results (or simply use thermal insulation).
John
John
JDNSW
1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol
I suggest also consider wrapping the exhaust with racing car exhaust tape.
I did mine from just under the turbo to behind the transfer case.
In summer the AC is WAY more efficient, but we haven't got to winter yet & Im having to use the heater already.
The ambient temp in the cabin is way down.
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