I might have a lead to a couple... came about after a conversation that may or may not have started out about a mechanic for an armoured corps unit with M113A1 apc and LR 110 prenties who may or may not have had a few and might or might not have been queried about fitting the engine from the bucket that might or might not have been getting a pack change into the engine bay of the FFR that could or could not have had the engine out for a rear main...
It may have actually fit between the rails and under the bonnet once the exhausts were off...
but thats just some wild speculation, It certainly doesnt sound too much like anything I'd get involved with....
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
Upgraded to a 6V92TA - just sold, but went like the clappers - ex Greyhound
D4 MY16 TDV6 - Cambo towing magic, Traxide Batteries, X Lifter, GAP ID Tool, Snorkel, Mitch Hitch, Clearview Mirrors, F&R Dashcams, CB
RRC MY95 LSE Vogue Softdash "Bessie" with MY99 TD5 and 4HP24 transplants
SADLY SOLD MY04 D2a TD5 auto and MY10 D4 2.7 both with lots of goodies
Aluminium 3-53 & 8V71's were made for the US Army for snow tractors and other low ground pressure weight sensitive applications. Getting a bit rare nowadays.
Joe Hawkes at Airlie Beach has an ally 3-53 module engine, radiator clutch & 4 speed trans mounted on a frame. Brand new too. Problem is Joe rarely sells anything, preferring to accumulate.
URSUSMAJOR
Have a talk to Mike Vine in Brisbane. He does a turbo setup for the 4BD1 that doesn't require intercooling. The turbo (garret T3) is mounted on the drivers side under the inlet manifold and in reverse to the normal turbo position (i.e. the compressor on the forward side and turbine on the rear. This keeps intake temperatures considerably cooler that the standard setup. I have this setup on mine and my exhaust temps are lower than others that I have driven with the turbo mounted in the standard position on the exhaust manifold.
Cheers......Brian
1985 110 V8 County
1998 110 Perentie GS Cargo 6X6 ARN 202516 (Brutus)
I have run a set of calculations recently for a toyota diesel that was going to be supercharged. The results show it's a waste of time.
The poor efficiency of superchargers results in poor charge density (i.e. requires a lot of supercharger boost to deliver any decent increase in air-flow) and the power they suck from the crank damn near eats all the power you get.
Conclusion: Superchargers only work well on petrols where low boost is required and the evaporation of the fuel in the intake does a lot of cooling for you. Even then your fuel economy is slaughtered. It takes a similar amount of power to drive the supercharger at 2000rpm as it does to push the vehicle at 100km/h.
Which is why there are no supercharged diesels on the road.
Why do you think you need intercooling and high exhaust temps with a turbo?
Turbocharging reduces exhaust gas temperatures and intercooling is only needed at high boost. I am currently running 24psi max on my 4BD1T with no intercooler. My hottest exhaust temps are the same as a non turbo 4BD1.
Why do you think your setup does not require intercooling?
Have you measured intake temps compared to other setups?
Based on (simple) some calcs I did a while back, and system with greater than 3-5 psi Boost will benefit from an intercooler. Technically no turbo or SC setup "requires" intercooling, as increasing boost lowers EGTs... It is just that you will get better efficiency and performance with intercooling.
I worked out a while back that at 7psi if an intercooler had 1psi flow restriction then it would give no gain in air density over 7psi with no intercooler.
I consider below 10psi an intercooler is never needed (diesel), at 12psi it's worth thinking about, at 15psi you really should have one.
Only idiots run higher than 20psi without them.
Petrols are different, they have the whole pre-ignition thing to control and can't run the intake temps a diesel can.
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