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Thread: New Isuzu Owner

  1. #11
    lokka Guest
    Charge the battery overnight or longer if required with a real battery charger something that has at least 8 or more amp output so to give the battery a good solid charge as the alternator will only surface charge a battery and it wont give it enough life or any real capacity Tho just be sure not to over voltage the battery keep it below 14.5 volts so you dont fry it

  2. #12
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    The PO apparently ran the battery flat serveral times which I think might have killed it, I'm got to get a multi meter and charger tomorrow and we'll see what happens.


    dswatts: Regarding the boat, Indeed it has it was launched 1897 according to the earliest record we could find and it's been in the family since 1953 when my grandad pulled it out of the maylands boat graveyard and rebuilt it. Prior to that its was a ferry/tug in albany and Esperance in the 20s and was shark fishing off Lancelin in the 30s.

    about 20 years ago we had a fellow in his mid 90s come down and have a look at it his uncle had bought it and he remembered seeing it arrive in Albany on the train in the 20s


    It's currently at RFBYC and gets near constant use over at Rotto throughout summer.

  3. #13
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    Well Battery charged but no luck

    Even with the new voltage reg it doesn't look like the alternator is putting
    out over 12v and it drops as soon as the lights are turned on, I was
    expecting 13-14v I think thats right.


    Does anyone know the part number for a replacement alterntator that
    would bolt in. I believe that the bracket was changed at some point is
    there any way to tell which I should be using.

    cheers

  4. #14
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    Check the part number thread.. there are a couple of different versions (120A, 80A 70A 40A.)

    I got the 70A, as higher output would have meant upgrading the wiring.

    It is one like this: NEW ALTERNATOR 86 87 88 89 90 ISUZU NPR 3.9 4BD1 ENGINE | eBay

    Which is a chinese copy of the Hitachi.. but the genuine one is $650+ and I think mine was about $200 to my door.

    What do you mean change braket? When I changed mine, i had to cut the bracket as the old one was too long to fit between the feet. This is because the later model trucks have their feet closer together (and an overall smaller unit).

    If you are ordering online, MAKE SURE YOU GET A 12V ONE!!! there are a lot of 24V truck ones, as it is a truck engine.
    Hercules: 1986 110 Isuzu 3.9 (4BD1-T)
    Brutus: 1969 109 ExMil 2a FFT (loved and lost)

  5. #15
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    Yeah I was going through the CDs I've got through the site
    they list

    4bd1
    100210-1150
    12V 40A

    and

    4BD1T
    LR170-401
    12V 70A

    I was looking at the one you linked already and given how bad the wiring is I'll prob need to redo most of it anyway.

  6. #16
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    Just saw that car in the marketplace this morning, crap I was just about to get excited and catch a flight over there

  7. #17
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    So apparently the other alternator option is ALT7055R-80

    Voltage: 12V
    Amperage: 80amp
    Reg Type: Internally Regulated
    Mount Type: Twin Foot
    Pulley Type: 1A
    Pulley OD: 82mm
    Shaft Dia: 17mm

    Centre to Centre: 170mm
    Inside Leg: 80mm
    Leg Measurement: 0mm
    Adj Leg Hole Dia: M8mm
    Front Mt Hole Dia: 10mm
    Rear Mt Hole Dia: 10.5mm
    Notes : 50cc Pump

    Does anyone know what would be the most likely to fit

    I'm guessing the original 40A is hard to find but requires the least work to fit

    the other 2 require me to rewire the system to work without the external voltage reg and cut down the bracket to 80mm from the 97 original

    Does this all sound correct ?

  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Distortion

    the other 2 require me to rewire the system to work without the external voltage reg and cut down the bracket to 80mm from the 97 original

    Does this all sound correct ?
    Yep. I havnt rewired the external regulator yet, and it over charges.
    Hercules: 1986 110 Isuzu 3.9 (4BD1-T)
    Brutus: 1969 109 ExMil 2a FFT (loved and lost)

  9. #19
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    So bit of an update

    Got round to fitting a replacement alternator (cheers Bearman) and I've
    run into further problems with this one overvolting,

    seems to put out arount 13.5 at idle but goes all the way up to over 16 possibly much higher at driving rpm.

    swapped the voltage regs around again just to check the old one still causes a charge light to stay on but the voltage still seems to be 16V
    or more

    so short story
    Old alternator with old Reg was around 12.2V@2000rpm with the charge light staying on

    Old alternator with new Reg was around 12.2V@2000rpm with the charge light going off

    New alternator with old Reg was around 17V@2000rpm with the charge light staying on


    New alternator with new Reg was around 17V@2000rpm with the charge light going off

    anyway I'm thoughly confused anyone have any ideas before I go hand money over to an auto electrician

    cheers

  10. #20
    Bearman's Avatar
    Bearman is offline TopicToaster Gold Subscriber
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    Hi Rob, what happens when you turn the headlight on (new alternator and new regulator). Does the voltage come down?
    Cheers......Brian
    1985 110 V8 County
    1998 110 Perentie GS Cargo 6X6 ARN 202516 (Brutus)

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