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Thread: Isuzu engine stop cable.

  1. #21
    Judo's Avatar
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    Thanks Steve. Yeah I did a search and found various threads on other people doing custom installs like yours. The idea of the cheapest one and making it fit is solid, but I don't have a welder or the like to make brackets. Unfortunately a house with a bigger shed is higher on the list than a welder. I get jealous every time I see slick bracketry.

    Anyway, I was considering mounting it in the cabin and having a cable run to the fuel pump which shouldn't be too hard as long as the cable has the right thread on it for the fuel pump end. I like the idea of having it high and dry. However for simplicity I might just find either a second hand OEM from a wrecker, or a new one from that Singapore place. Sounds like a simple fit.

    I'll post updates once I figure out what I'm doing!
    - Justin

    '95 Disco 300TDI - sold
    '86 County 110 Isuzu
    2006 Range Rover Vogue td6

  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Judo View Post
    Thanks Steve. Yeah I did a search and found various threads on other people doing custom installs like yours. The idea of the cheapest one and making it fit is solid, but I don't have a welder or the like to make brackets. Unfortunately a house with a bigger shed is higher on the list than a welder. I get jealous every time I see slick bracketry.

    Anyway, I was considering mounting it in the cabin and having a cable run to the fuel pump which shouldn't be too hard as long as the cable has the right thread on it for the fuel pump end. I like the idea of having it high and dry. However for simplicity I might just find either a second hand OEM from a wrecker, or a new one from that Singapore place. Sounds like a simple fit.

    I'll post updates once I figure out what I'm doing!
    Don't let the lack of a welder stop you from installing one. If you can be bothered taking a drive down to Lara I'm happy to give you a hand to make up some brackets. PM me if you're interested.

    Steve
    1985 County - Isuzu 4bd1 with HX30W turbo, LT95, 255/85-16 KM2's
    1988 120 with rust and potential
    1999 300tdi 130 single cab - "stock as bro"
    2003 D2a Td5 - the boss's daily drive

  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Judo View Post
    Yeah I did a search and found various threads on other people doing custom installs like yours. The idea of the cheapest one and making it fit is solid, but I don't have a welder or the like to make brackets. Unfortunately a house with a bigger shed is higher on the list than a welder. I get jealous every time I see slick bracketry.
    The one I just installed came from a truck wreckers, with bracket attached. Just bent it a bit, drilled two holes and bolted it high on the wheel arch - no welding or bracket manufacturing necessary. Will post pics later.

  4. #24
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    Just for the info of those wanting to fit a manual stop cable ... I procured a cable from a late 70's Hino FWD control, at the wreckers. Its claim to fame is that it has a ratchet that holds it on, once pulled. It's just a matter of turning it clockwise to release. Built like a brick dunny too!


    Cheers.

  5. #25
    Judo's Avatar
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    Can anyone tell me which way the fuel stop lever is spring loaded? If there is no cable attached, should it spring to "run" or "stop"?

    Edit: I'm talking at the fuel pump end.

    - Justin

    '95 Disco 300TDI - sold
    '86 County 110 Isuzu
    2006 Range Rover Vogue td6

  6. #26
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    Spring loaded to run position. Pull lever forward to stop.

  7. #27
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    I feel like this is really simple, but I'm just not fully understanding how this works....

    Does the standard solenoid push or pull a cable to "run"?

    Logic tells me that you can't push a cable with much force, so if the lever is spring loaded towards run, then the cable must be pulled to stop and pushed to run. Is this correct?

    I envisaged the solenoid would pull to run, push to stop. (The opposite of how I see the lever working).

    To put it another, I pictured the connection of components:

    solenoid -> cable -> lever (push)
    solenoid <- cable <- lever (pull)

    Perhaps this is where I'm going wrong?
    - Justin

    '95 Disco 300TDI - sold
    '86 County 110 Isuzu
    2006 Range Rover Vogue td6

  8. #28
    lokka Guest
    The EDIC as its called is there to pull the fuel stop back to stop the motor and it also has a locking function so once the solinoid is back it locks it there then once you turn the key to start it releases the lock so the fuel stop arm springs back into place ,

    The early isuzu series 3 stage 1 has a spring loaded pull stop attached to the ignition barrel and to stop the motor you pull it out and it locks then turn off the key then to start simply turn the key which releases the latch and the pull stop springs back in very effective and no electrics to play up tho they do wear out like most things that go in and out

  9. #29
    Judo's Avatar
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    RIGHT! Now it's starting to make sense! Except for that last bit. Nothing worn out here buddy!
    - Justin

    '95 Disco 300TDI - sold
    '86 County 110 Isuzu
    2006 Range Rover Vogue td6

  10. #30
    Judo's Avatar
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    OK, taking the sensible option suggested by SteveG. I had rang a few random wreckers earlier but somehow didn't see there was a specific place mentioned in Steve's post - Timms wreckers in Thomastown. $55 for the Mazda T3500. They apparently have a box of them, so I just need to go in there.

    FYI They also have Isuzu ones, but they're all 24v. Mazda one is 12v.

    Cheers.
    - Justin

    '95 Disco 300TDI - sold
    '86 County 110 Isuzu
    2006 Range Rover Vogue td6

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