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It is. 60mm compressor and turbine. The RHF6 could do 18m3/min (about 48 lb/min, I can't find figures for the earlier RHB6) But the RHB6 is a less efficient turbo. This means more drive pressure to produce the same boost and ultimately lower power and lower fuel economy.Quote:
Originally Posted by rar110
Bigger is not often better in the turbo world. First it's gotta be the right size, secondly it's got to have decent efficiency.
Hi guys,
Can I clear up weather the turbo I am looking at is A: Too Big, or B: Too ineficient? How would you suggest it would suit the 4BD1? If it is no good I won't worry about using it. I just am unsure about the VNT turbo's because the nembers and maps for them are confusing and not anything like wastegated turbo's.
Cheers,
Brian.
The hino VNT? Run it. Hino/Toyota have already confirmed that's an excellent match for a 4 litre diesel.Quote:
Originally Posted by goanna_shire
So would this WTA intercooler be sufficient for a 4BD1 with a GT28 turbo?
https://www.plazmaman.com/shop_itemd...id=172&cate=96
The "hp" ratings are geared for petrol. When I spoke to them they explained it but I do not remember the explanation and justification well enough to write it here.
With the CFM and cooling I wanted they recommended the "800hp" one, or the 900 "if I needed head room".
I went the 800, and I know a 120 on the forum who has it and it keeps his EGTs down perfectly.
Give them a call, they are great to deal with.
The HP ratings are generally complete bollocks. The actual data you need (pressure drop at given flow-rates, heat rejection rates) won't be available.Quote:
Originally Posted by rar110
They will all work to some degree. But front mounts work better.
Hi,
The turbo arrived today :D. Most expensive part covered. As I have understood the WTA intercoolers are more efficient than ATA. Is this more directed from the ricers petrol engines and doesn't realy apply to our smoky fruit trucks. I am keen for the best setup of course and would love to hear the arguments for/against WTA. One reason I am not keen for the ATA setup is the moving of the radiator back and welding new mounts(perentie chassis). Also the lag effect the ATA gives is somewhat undesireable. One good thing for the ATA is the cost. They tend to be a lot cheaper than the WTA counterpart.
I have the air con condenser in front of the radiator. Would it be ok infront of the ATA intercooler? IE.. condenser/ATA/Radiator.
Cheers,
Brian
There is a lot of rubbish online about water/air intercoolers. Yes the individual water/air heat exchanger can be very effective, but the whole system includes an intermediate medium (the water) and another radiator which both add layers of insulation to the system and reduce the effectiveness.Quote:
Originally Posted by goanna_shire
Your bottleneck remains the front radiator to air, to shed the same amount of heat you'll need a similar area here.
Look at the Laminova water/air intercoolers that Matt McInnes was selling, to get effectiveness better than 60% they were pushing massive amounts of water and huge frontal radiators.
Where any air/air that can't get 60% is either really small or has something wrong.
Water/Air is best when you can't physically fit an air/air or it's plumbing.
Some more data points using the maximum flow from a stock pump. 140cc/1000 shots.
Borg Warner EFR data points: BorgWarner MatchBot
Graph of potential:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...013/05/165.jpg
John, your 180cc pump is starting to look a little bit excessive.:D
BrianQuote:
Originally Posted by goanna_shire
Air to air is the go find the biggest 3 in thick core you can fit infront of the rad and use the county A/C nose cone to extend the grill out front plumb the pipes back through the sides of the guards and your set .
Go back through this section and look for JC's thread the New Tourer and have a squiz how he plumbed his front mount as this is how i will be doing mine in the not too distant future :D