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Thread: 4BD1T Turbo Sizing and Performance Prediction.

  1. #51
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    WTA is good for spikes, whereas ATA is best for fast always on boost applications.



    I went WTA because I don't want any lag, won't be on boost all the time and am keeping my A/C so don't have room for a 3 inch thick intercooler.



    Water is better than air at absorbing heat, but (as dougal said) you then have to get rid of it..
    Hercules: 1986 110 Isuzu 3.9 (4BD1-T)
    Brutus: 1969 109 ExMil 2a FFT (loved and lost)

  2. #52
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    Thoughts on the turbo off my 4he1t engine witch has just arrived broke a stud while doing the EGR mod so decided to replace all studs with stainless and
    neverseize On dismantle as you can see in the pic the gas sheild is cactus Turbo numbers are Garrett M24 AR 60 on airside 9e18 Garrett
    AR 80 ms LG4 on exhaust side Options are turn up a new piece or Locate a kit a new stock turbo or go something better


    Without being rude any sugestions?

    Thanks AM
    Attached Images Attached Images

  3. #53
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    The with the exception of the AR 80 (A/R) number from the turbine housing, the other numbers you quoted from the compressor cover and turbine housing aren't of much use.

    You pic shows a nameplate on the centre housing, the numbers from this can be searched to provide more useful information.

  4. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ancient Mariner View Post
    Thoughts on the turbo off my 4he1t engine witch has just arrived broke a stud while doing the EGR mod so decided to replace all studs with stainless and
    neverseize On dismantle as you can see in the pic the gas sheild is cactus Turbo numbers are Garrett M24 AR 60 on airside 9e18 Garrett
    AR 80 ms LG4 on exhaust side Options are turn up a new piece or Locate a kit a new stock turbo or go something better


    Without being rude any sugestions?

    Thanks AM
    Looks like a T28 or even T25 hot side. Can you measure the wheel? It's a PITA with an uneven number of blades, but intake and exit diameters will give it to us.

    What's your budget for something better?

  5. #55
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    The wheel diam is 2.123"or 53.90mm turned a piece of stock to just fit so pretty acurate . Numbers on small plate are CG1864j 8972089661
    700716-5 As for the budget I would like to say money is no object
    But at the moment time is more important with so much other stuff to be done

    Thanks Noel

  6. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ancient Mariner View Post
    The wheel diam is 2.123"or 53.90mm turned a piece of stock to just fit so pretty acurate . Numbers on small plate are CG1864j 8972089661
    700716-5 As for the budget I would like to say money is no object
    But at the moment time is more important with so much other stuff to be done

    Thanks Noel
    53.8mm is the official OD of the T28 turbines. Looks like it's a standard T28 heat-shield.
    Like this one: Turbocharger Rebuild parts spares - GENUINE Garrett T28 Heatshield Turbine

    The money-is-no-object turbo for a 4.8 litre 4HE1 would have to be a Borg Warner EFR 7064.
    Here is one mapped out on matchbot. I just tweaked the 4BD1T figures: BorgWarner MatchBot

    Calculated power, around 400hp. Torque around 950Nm. Having 4 valves per cylinder really helps with power production.
    You might need some injection pump modifications. I'm not aware of anyone who's had the stock pump bench tested for flow numbers.

    If you have more sane goals, we can probably pick a smaller one with more low end punch.

  7. #57
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    Would be nice Dougal but I think you have the wrong engine 2 valves per cyl

  8. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ancient Mariner View Post
    Would be nice Dougal but I think you have the wrong engine 2 valves per cyl
    Gotcha. 4HK is 4 valve but 5.2 litres.

    4HE1 redone with VE appropriate to 2 valves and a bit more boost. 400hp and 950+Nm is still on the table.
    http://www.turbodriven.com//performa...6_wrsin=92044&

  9. #59
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    I have just read the whole thread and am sitting on the fence, somewhere between understanding and my brain turning to goo.

    I am trying to figure out the best option for my 6x6 defender and soon to be acquiered rebuilt 4bd1. I plan to turbo and intercool it.

    The 6x6 is heavy, 4t-ish kitted out, so low down grunt is important to get the thing moving. Reliability/performance/ease of install are more important than cost too.

    GT2259 or Holset HX25 perhaps?

    No aircon so space for 3" intercooler.

    Thanks in advance!

  10. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jitterbug View Post
    I have just read the whole thread and am sitting on the fence, somewhere between understanding and my brain turning to goo.

    I am trying to figure out the best option for my 6x6 defender and soon to be acquiered rebuilt 4bd1. I plan to turbo and intercool it.

    The 6x6 is heavy, 4t-ish kitted out, so low down grunt is important to get the thing moving. Reliability/performance/ease of install are more important than cost too.

    GT2259 or Holset HX25 perhaps?

    No aircon so space for 3" intercooler.

    Thanks in advance!
    I'm not yet convinced that the non turbo 4BD1's put out the same fuel as the factory T. But without piston squirters you'll be wanting to run a bit more boost for your fuel anyway.
    As you get up in the power, torque figures start becoming silly and even TRB LT95's reliability would be massive question.

    So you'd not want to go mental with boost and fuel anyway. 20psi with a decent intercooler and safe EGT is probably as hard as you'd want to run it.

    GT2259 would be a good start.
    Td04HL turbos.
    Holset HE221
    Borg Warner like Flagg is fitting.

    Wastegating can be a problem with high boost. It's hard to find a good acuator. I've got a 22psi unit but even on my T25 it struggles to maintain 20psi at higher rpm.
    So I've ordered a Kinugawa rebuildable wastegate actuator with 5 springs. 2.0bar (30psi), 1.7bar (25psi), 1.5 bar (22psi) and 1.2 bar (18psi).



    I ordered through Kando Dynamic on Ebay Australia.

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