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Thread: MYY Gearbox?

  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by the_grubb View Post
    Can you please explain more about your low load cruising? You mean cruising down the highway? or in a specific speed zone (60, 80 etc). So highest gear where it still feels 'nice' - I understand that. So if you are only 'cruising' and not whipping through gears under high load, I fail to see how a splitter then becomes a bastard to drive and keeps the RPM at the sweet spot. In fact the splitter allows for more 'sweet' spots.
    Two main situations.
    One is specific speed zones (50 and 80km/h) where I find 4th is on the verge of rumble and 3rd feels a bit revvy. 80 is the current rumble point in 5th.
    The other is offroad where speed is dictated by the ground conditions and ends up similar to the above, but all sorts of different speeds.
    In the offroad situations I already have the LT230 low range as a splitter option. This works well in some situations. But it's a complete PITA compared to closer spaced ratios.

    Can you imagine your wife driving and trying to gently remind her that she is in the right gear but the wrong splitter ratio?

    Quote Originally Posted by the_grubb View Post
    Sure the compromise can be easily fixed with a 6 speed. However the compromise then turns into fitting the 6 speed in to the vehicle. When it comes to the compromise between a 6 speed and fitting it or a 5 speed with splitter and fitting it - right now I lean towards the 5 with splitter.
    For my own (special) circumstances we are talking not much difference in work between fitting a 5 and 6. For others it could be a complete show-stopper.
    Actually, my only decisions right now are MXA-6 speed or MYY-6. For the same work to tidy up my current adapters and convert from long-stick to short-stick position I can just as easily start again. The MYY ratios are a better fit.

    Quote Originally Posted by the_grubb View Post
    Then when you wish to accelerate away you do so from what ever gear you are in. There is going to be marginal difference in acceleration 'benefits'.
    I like to accelerate in the 1500-2500rpm band. With the 5 speed this is a stretch in some ratios. Particularly the ones which a 6sp will help.
    2,500rpm in second becomes ~1300rpm in 3rd (not good, have to pull ~3000rpm in second to make 1500 in 3rd)
    2,500rpm in 3rd becomes ~1550 in 4th (good)
    2,500rpm in 4th becomes ~1900rpm in 5th (good).

    This 2-3 jump isn't a problem for 98% of driving, but for that last 2% it's again a PITA. That 2% is suburban where I don't want to look like the tool revving way too high or the muppet who can't drive with the rumbling vehicle.
    The MSA-5P box (used to be fitted, I still have it) had a lower 3rd. So 2-3 gap was nice, but the 3-4 gap wasn't.
    Those are of course when cruising. If you want to make progress then closer gear ratios would help far more. We have a power band (peak torque to peak power) of about 1200rpm. It takes more than four usable gears to stay in it.

    Quote Originally Posted by the_grubb View Post
    ***Umm vested interest..... ask anyone who has tried to buy a conversion of me in the last probably year..... I haven't made or sold any for a year. It is not really worth my effort. In relative terms, compared to my main source of income - it cost me money to make them. Why do you think it has been hard to get a hold of me lately? I find it hard to say no to people wanting conversions even though it cost me...
    Did the guys on 4BTswaps get hold of you? Website was down and they couldn't find any contact details.

    Quote Originally Posted by the_grubb View Post
    I have my fuel screw right out. Big intercooler, no smoke and max temp so far is 650C. The good part is I don't have to back off ever The bad part is I am not spinning wheels Where do you think my torque and power sits compared to your pretty graphs? Perhaps if you get to that point, your thoughts may change?
    I'm sure you've heard me doubt the turbo'd 4BD1's put out the same fuel as the factory 4BD1T's. What's your max boost and what rpm with the 650C and I'll give you some idea of what it's actually doing.

    Quote Originally Posted by the_grubb View Post
    If you didn't want anyone's opinion - you shouldn't of asked. I just gave mine and happy to do so, even if it offends

    Ok back to your 6 speed. I look forwards to buying a conversion off you
    I didn't ask for your opinion. I asked if anyone had seriously looked at these and if they would fit.

    I don't sell conversions. I work on my own vehicles for my own satisfaction.

  2. #22
    SheldonA Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by Dougal View Post
    <SNIP>
    Can you imagine your wife driving and trying to gently remind her that she is in the right gear but the wrong splitter ratio?
    Ah there's 99% of your problem... I don't have a wife, I still wash my parts in the dishwasher.

    Quote Originally Posted by Dougal View Post


    For my own (special) circumstances we are talking not much difference in work between fitting a 5 and 6. For others it could be a complete show-stopper.
    Actually, my only decisions right now are MXA-6 speed or MYY-6. For the same work to tidy up my current adapters and convert from long-stick to short-stick position I can just as easily start again. The MYY ratios are a better fit.
    Fair enough. I was just throwing in the idea that the 5 speed with splitter may even be easier to fit than the 5 speed or 6 speeds you were looking at..... and give you the result you were after. Without knowing your (special) circumstances, it hard to help.

    Quote Originally Posted by Dougal View Post

    I like to accelerate in the 1500-2500rpm band. With the 5 speed this is a stretch in some ratios. Particularly the ones which a 6sp will help.
    2,500rpm in second becomes ~1300rpm in 3rd (not good, have to pull ~3000rpm in second to make 1500 in 3rd)
    2,500rpm in 3rd becomes ~1550 in 4th (good)
    2,500rpm in 4th becomes ~1900rpm in 5th (good).
    In my circumstances I don't find my 5 speed at all inadequate in accelerating in that RPM range of 1500-2500RPM. That's why I am wondering why you do.


    Quote Originally Posted by Dougal View Post
    This 2-3 jump isn't a problem for 98% of driving, but for that last 2% it's again a PITA. That 2% is suburban where I don't want to look like the tool revving way too high or the muppet who can't drive with the rumbling vehicle.
    The MSA-5P box (used to be fitted, I still have it) had a lower 3rd. So 2-3 gap was nice, but the 3-4 gap wasn't.
    Those are of course when cruising. If you want to make progress then closer gear ratios would help far more. We have a power band (peak torque to peak power) of about 1200rpm. It takes more than four usable gears to stay in it.
    I'm confused again, you want to drive a race car or cruise?

    Quote Originally Posted by Dougal View Post
    Did the guys on 4BTswaps get hold of you? Website was down and they couldn't find any contact details.
    I don't think so.

    Quote Originally Posted by Dougal View Post
    I'm sure you've heard me doubt the turbo'd 4BD1's put out the same fuel as the factory 4BD1T's. What's your max boost and what rpm with the 650C and I'll give you some idea of what it's actually doing.
    Max boost - above 15 psi... that's all my gauge goes too Obviously enough boost to burn all the fuel cleanly seeing there is no smoke.

    RPM not sure, I haven't refitted my RPM gauge since I changed the bulkhead and alternator.

    I'd love to know where I sit, even considered getting a dyno just for the hell of it.


    Quote Originally Posted by Dougal View Post

    I didn't ask for your opinion. I asked if anyone had seriously looked at these and if they would fit.
    No you asked if anyone had seriously looked at these, not whether they would fit as well. I gave what I thought was my best answer.

    I guess my answer should of simply been 'yes' and shut my trap Not much help with that though... of course anything fits with enough effort.

    Quote Originally Posted by Dougal View Post
    I don't sell conversions. I work on my own vehicles for my own satisfaction.
    He he, I know that. I was having a dig

    I forgot how much fun forums are!

  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by the_grubb View Post
    In my circumstances I don't find my 5 speed at all inadequate in accelerating in that RPM range of 1500-2500RPM. That's why I am wondering why you do.
    I'm confused again, you want to drive a race car or cruise?[/quote]

    Oh it's not in any way inadequate. But there's a gain to be had in peformance and drivability, so I'm out to get it.

    Quote Originally Posted by the_grubb View Post
    Max boost - above 15 psi... that's all my gauge goes too Obviously enough boost to burn all the fuel cleanly seeing there is no smoke.
    If you've got 140cc of fuel, then to burn it all cleanly you'll need 25psi boost at 2,500rpm ramping up to 32psi at 3,200rpm.
    That's why I doubt the originally non turbos are putting out 140cc/1000 shots. A single turbo at 32psi puts out a hell of a racket.

  4. #24
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    John, didn't you convert your MXA from a 4H fitment to 4B?

    Do you remember the input shaft differences?

  5. #25
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    Just called some wreckers. The only MYY6's they've had through to date were AMT's. $7-10k.

  6. #26
    SheldonA Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by Dougal View Post

    Oh it's not in any way inadequate. But there's a gain to be had in peformance and drivability, so I'm out to get it.
    So you do want a race car.

    Quote Originally Posted by Dougal View Post

    If you've got 140cc of fuel, then to burn it all cleanly you'll need 25psi boost at 2,500rpm ramping up to 32psi at 3,200rpm.
    That's why I doubt the originally non turbos are putting out 140cc/1000 shots. A single turbo at 32psi puts out a hell of a racket.
    I rarely go over 2400RPM, as the acceleration between 1500-2500 is excellent, so no need to go higher. I would safely say I easily have 25psi at 2500RPM. No requirement for me for 32psi at 3200RPM (yet).

    Back to your circumstance.... peak torque (2000RPM) to peak power (3200RPM) (power band), taken from your graphs.

    So we have an engine with a power band between 2000-3200, and to make use of that apparently we need more than 4 useable gears.

    I am confused again. Your wishing to accelerate between 1500-2500 and so you have the little problem of having to over rev in 2nd (up to 3000RPM) to get into 3rd at 1500. However, that just means you are actually using the engines power band....

    Did you want to use the engines power band or not?

    I am so confused, you want to match gears to 1500-2500 or to utilize the gears for 2000-3200 where the power band is??

    Tell me I am missing something... why not just drive in the range of 1500RPM up to what ever suits?

    If we are utilizing from 1500 to 3200 then 4 useable gears is adequate. If you don't want to rev over 2500RPM then why keep talking about peak torque to peak power??

  7. #27
    SheldonA Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by Dougal View Post
    <SNIP>
    Do you remember the input shaft differences?
    What's it matter. If you want it, just do it.

  8. #28
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    Horses for courses fellas Dougal probably does a few grade changes in 10 minutes I can drop into top and not change for 10 hours so lets agree to disagree 2- 3 -4-5-6-7- or 18 what ever suits your driving situation most off the time

    AM

  9. #29
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    ^what he said
    Hercules: 1986 110 Isuzu 3.9 (4BD1-T)
    Brutus: 1969 109 ExMil 2a FFT (loved and lost)

  10. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dougal View Post
    John, didn't you convert your MXA from a 4H fitment to 4B?

    Do you remember the input shaft differences?
    The place I picked up the MXA-6, removed the original bell housing, because it wouldn't bolt to a 4BD1T flywheel housing and gave me one which would. I never asked what the original bell housing suited, I just assumed 4H, from my limited experience.

    One thing I do know is that the ratios 1st to 5th in my MXA-6R are identical to 1st to 5th in a MXA-5R. 6th is tall so I have changed the diff ratio, which has effectively closed the ratios a little. Revs still drop more than what you said you would like on the change 2nd to 3rd, but there is plenty of torque with that amount of gear reduction.

    Edit: sorry missed the part about input shaft differences. What gearboxes do you want the differences between?

    I had to change the original clutch plate that came fitted to my 4BD1T, to suit the input shaft of the MXA-6R. My engine is an 89, and the clutch plate spline was increased in April 1990 to 29mm x 21 teeth, as specified in the clutch specs.

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