John, do you know what the thread of the 4bd1 glow plug is?
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John, do you know what the thread of the 4bd1 glow plug is?
M10x1.25?
Glow plug part numbers. These two are dimensionally identical, top one for 12v vehicles, lower one for 24v vehicles.
HKT PI-49
NGK Y-904M
BOSCH GPI-010
Champion CH306
Isuzu 8-94175158-0
Volts 11.0
Type SQT
HKT PI-50
NGK Y-954M
BOSCH GPI-021
Isuzu 8-94135377-3
Volts 23.0
Type SQT
Thanks so much for all your input.
My neighbour is an old school type garage and was talking to him yesterday about it and he says I can borrow his compression tester with an adapter for the glow plug holes so this is the way I will go!!!
Might take me a week or so to get round to doing it but will keep this post updated on my findings.
Also seen a TB2568 turbo on ebay for £219 shipped, is this to cheap to be any good and would it be an upgrade?
TB2568 Turbo ISUZU 4DB2 3856 NPR 96 2.5L 4L turbocharger 466409-0002 8971056180 | eBay
Thanks again
There are a number of details that have been messed up in that ebay add.
I'm not sure of the designation of the turbo used on the 4BD2T, as we never got that engine here, but the waste gated turbo used on the 4BD2T will be an improvement over the free float Garrett used on the 4BD1T.
I would have said a 68mm compressor impeller is getting to be too large for good performance with both the 4BD1T or 4BD2T, so I would be somewhat suspicious of that part of the description as well.
Dougal will know more about the turbo from a 4BD1T. I'm lead to believe the same turbo was used on the 4BD1T as well.
Yes that wastegated TB25 (466409) will be a bolt on upgrade. I believe JustinC runs the same turbo.
They came mostly on 4BD2's, but some 4BD1T's in some markets (vague huh?) seem to have them.
You will need to make a new downpipe with flange to fit. There are about 3 different T2/T25/T28 outlet flange patterns, I don't know which one they have, but all dimensions are in the back of the garrett web pdf catalogues.
Thanks for that, I may look further at the turbo upgrade path once I have got the other problems sorted!!!
S.M.S. for spares. They are in Enfield, North London. Ph/No 0208 443 4443. Quite a few engine reconditioners can supply most parts for the engines. l've never had problems getting parts.
I don't know if the product is available in the UK, but in Aust we have a product called Cost Effective Maintenance. I have seen this used on an old Perkins powered Fordson tractor and it rejuvenated the sludgy, smokey engine to like new. Sticky rings from sitting in an otherwise sound engine around would be the ideal case for using this stuff. Certainly much cheaper and quicker than an engine stripdown. If it does turn out that engine component replacement is required (valve seals, rings, etc), then at least you are working on a sludge and glaze-free engine.
Haven't had chance to investigate the engine problems yet as been on holiday, which actually showed up another fault!
We went away with our caravan on a 850 mile round trip, the caravan is quite large and with the rest of our stuff probably towing an extra 2 tonnes.
On level going the engine coped fine but any hill and it just lost all power having to drop into third gear on some hills, just didn't have enough go! Lots of black smoke though so disconnected the snorkal just in case it was starving the air but no better.
The front of the caravan is a mess now, black and covered in oil spots!
Found out the front and rear crank seals are leaking and oil around the oil filter housing block.
We are away for the next 2 weekends with it but then will have to get it sorted.
A diesel needs all of the following to run properly:
a) good engine compression, to provide the heat needed for ignition
b) clean diesel fuel delivery, at the correct timing advance
c) clean air delivery at an adequate rate for good combustion
d) proper servicing of filters and lubricants
Your problems sound like one or all of the first 3. If it starts easily when cold, (a) is least likely, and if that is the case I would start with (c). Also I would start by measuring the boost pressure, suspecting it to be low. Low boost pressure could be a problem with the turbo, or leaks between the compressor outlet and the manifold, or less likely, a restriction before the compressor inlet.
Lack of power indicates you are not burning enough fuel in the combustion chamber, but black smoke is not consistent with lack of fuel and indicates incomplete combustion. So the problem is more likely (a) or (c), but could be faulty fuel injectors (poor atomisation) or incorrect injection timing.