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You may or may not be aware the tray top 110s of that era have a wheelbase of 120" instead of the 110" suggested by the name. The chassis has had 10 inches grafted behind the rear outrigger by plating and sleeving the box sections. I'm told the these can be prone to rust, although I've not found that to be the issue (sample of one).
The actual problems that surface will really be about how it was driven and maintained - there are not many inherent problems.
The only one that hasn't been mentioned is cracking of the front diff housing, caused by the weight of the 4BD1. Mine cracked around the pumpkin - it was obvious as the crack leaked oil. I've heard of it happening to several others as well.
Brilliant! Thanks everyone! I'm pretty set on buying it now. I have had more issues than all of the ones mentioned in this post with my 4yo nissan patrol! Great to know that the issues involved with the landy aren't neccessarily huge ones. I'm getting atleast one spare landy for parts when i buy it. Cheers for all the help! I wasn't expecting it on my first post :) i'll let you know how i go with it when i get it in the coming weeks. I can't wait to own a landy again!
The engine, gearbox and rear axle are basically bulletproof.
The few issues with mine have been niggly things like door lock mechanisms, wiring, switches, etc...
A parts vehicle wouldn't have been much help for me. However there are several good parts suppliers in the UK who can have parts to your door in a week for much lower prices than in AU. All 4x4 in NSW is also a good source of parts.
To add to the last post, the plastic mounting parts for the instruments crack/break.
Indeed. I fabricated my own instrument panel cradle from aluminium, and later did the same when the instrument panel finally cracked all the mounting locations.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bush65
Any pics, and can u make same for me?Quote:
Originally Posted by isuzurover
I have some pics of the cradle somewhere... I made that back in 2003, and made the instrument panel in 2011.Quote:
Originally Posted by rar110
Don't know how keen I would be to make more. If there was enough interest I suppose I could get some patterns laser cut which would speed things up...
Oh hai. :D
Something else about this vehicle I wanted to ask, how fast should they turn over on the starter motor? This one gets to TDC and damn near stops, it's been like this for years. Is that normal? You have to glow it for a quite a while to get it to start but from what I've read they normally don't even need glowing.
Should turn over quite briskly, and start almost immediately. But the current draw is high, so the starting system is sensitive to poor connections. I had problems with the solenoid, but it turned out that the problem ultimately was the earth strap across the LH engine mount. I supplemented this with a link between the transfer case and the chassis, and ran the battery earth to the transfer case. No more solenoid problems! (Need to use glow plugs to counter slow cranking speed is normal.)
The thing to do is to check for voltage loss while cranking. As well as the earth strap, look for any other voltage drop - I have heard of a faulty connection between the lug on the battery lead and the wire itself, and I have had to clean the lug on the solenoid. With the current draw for this engine when starting, everything needs to be right. It is perhaps worth noting that most Isuzu trucks with this engine have 24v electrics.
Also, the battery needs to be in good condition. I had hoped mine would last through this winter, but in July had to get a new one. The old one is working like new in my petrol engined S2a!
John