Thread: About to buy a Perentie. What things should I know and look out for?

Depending on its condition a fair bit of preventative maintenance and trip prep would be in order before a trip like you are going to be doing.

Depending on the records if any, the following would be good to do...

Obviously fluids, oils, lubes, belts, and filters should be changed and hydraulic systems will need a good looking at.

Again, depending on the records (if any) it would be good to have the radiator rodded.

The tyres also could need some critical inspection. Personally, I have changed them for tubeless using D1 rims. If you do something like that you'll have extra spares.

You can expect around 10km per litre if sensibly driven.

If you haven't got a use for 24v you could consider removing the 24v generator and system to save weight and give some extra storage space. I've adapted ours for extra led lighting and the Engels, all of which can use 24v.

Best of luck with your trip - they can be hot to drive in the summer a lot of heat comes through the bulkhead and the floor.

Fuel economy will largely depend on how heavily loaded you are, how hard you drive and the conditions. e.g. I have experienced anything from 9 L/100 lightly loaded and not going over 80 km/h to 24 L/100 driving into 100 km/h headwinds with a tall roof rack (3rd gear was the highest it would pull and 85 km/h top speed) - however in that case the timing was retarded which probably reduced power and increased consumption.

The average for my 4BD1+T on the canning stock route was about 12-13 L/100 km/h.

No mechanic in northern WA wants to go anywhere near a landrover, so be prepared to work on it yourself.

I will post a list of things to check and spares when I have some more time.

The Pilbara at Christmas will be stinking hot.

Can not emphasise enough the need for water.

Disco 1 rims offset puts the rear tyre too close to the chassis spring cradle which is beefed up on the perentie. The tyre rubs against the chassis. Not badly but enough to cause black scuffing in the chassis.

Wolf rims offset is a bit wide and results in mud getting sprayed up the sides.

I would look for normal stuff on a car that age that's been driven like someone's shooting at you.

Suspension bushes, tie rod ends, and rust in the firewall.

It probably won't have power steering.

Originally Posted by rar110

Disco 1 rims offset puts the rear tyre too close to the chassis spring cradle which is beefed up on the perentie. The tyre rubs against the chassis. Not badly but enough to cause black scuffing in the chassis. .............

heaps of clearance (255 85 BFG MTs on D1 steel rims) - see pic complete with a little bit of real mud - don't think I could get these to scuff on the chassis !

I read somewhere else someone stating something to the effect that anything larger than 7.50 16 wouldn't fit in the spare wheel space .

I can confirm that 255 85s WILL fit the spare wheel space with still a little clearance.

I did let that one go through without comment at the time but I just couldn't let this one go without correcting it.


These posters are asking for information that they need fellas - let's keep it factual for them

I have to back RAR110 up on this one. I tried standard D1 rims on mine with 235/85/16 tyres and also found they rubbed on the top of the spring tower from the dislocation tab to the top of the bracket on articulation.

Originally Posted by Bearman

I have to back RAR110 up on this one. I tried standard D1 rims on mine with 235/85/16 tyres and also found they rubbed on the top of the spring tower from the dislocation tab to the top of the bracket on articulation.

well - as you can see in the pic - the tyre is nowhere near the mount

Originally Posted by 87County

well - as you can see in the pic - the tyre is nowhere near the mount

That pic is on level ground.

Post another pic after you crossaxle it.

Even on a civvie 110, standard offset disco 1 rims cause the tyres to rub on the coil turrets.