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Thread: Isuzu Twin Oil Filter Spacer Block

  1. #41
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    2,264
    One kit still available at the group buy price if anyone is interested. Full details in "The Verandah" or PM me.

    Cheers
    Maker of Nugget Stuff

    http://www.nuggetstuff.com

  2. #42
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Hay Point
    Posts
    3,967
    Just an update, this thread has been edited to remove the the initial group buy that didn't eventuate but the rest of the information has been retained.
    Cheers......Brian
    1985 110 V8 County
    1998 110 Perentie GS Cargo 6X6 ARN 202516 (Brutus)

  3. #43
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Queensland
    Posts
    3,157
    Just getting around to thinking about fitting this kit.
    Forgot I might have to drill the block.
    Came with 4 lengths of of threaded rod, I guess for the main housing and 2 bolts and nuts.
    How do the bolts and nuts work for the top extension as I thought they would be studs also. Can I drill and tap this top extension for a turbo feed?
    Does it need a restrictor?

  4. #44
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Geelong, VIC
    Posts
    4,286
    I made my own spacers, but took the turbo feed off the main filter housing as there was already a port there to use. Can't recall if it was blanked originally or had a line fitted that I didn't have on my engine.
    AFAIK there's no need for a restrictor unless you're running a ball bearing turbo. My old setup was AN-4 size hose and fittings, and onto the turbo banjo fitting. Definitely an unrestricted fitting.
    My new HX30W setup is working fine with same hose etc, but I had to get a new (larger) banjo and bolt to suit.

    Definitely need to drill the block or the bypass filter just sits there with no flow. Don't ask me how I know

    Steve
    1985 County - Isuzu 4bd1 with HX30W turbo, LT95, 255/85-16 KM2's
    1988 120 with rust and potential
    1999 300tdi 130 single cab - "stock as bro"
    2003 D2a Td5 - the boss's daily drive

  5. #45
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Brisbane, Inner East.
    Posts
    10,939
    It would be nice if persons posting photos did so in a system that allows me to open them instead I get a message to contact Photobucket.
    URSUSMAJOR

  6. #46
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Bracken Ridge - Brisbane - QLD
    Posts
    14,254
    Quote Originally Posted by Bigbjorn View Post
    It would be nice if persons posting photos did so in a system that allows me to open them instead I get a message to contact Photobucket.
    This is a very old thread......and photobucket changed their rules, sadly a lot of threads have lost pics.

  7. #47
    Join Date
    Oct 2017
    Location
    Phillip Island
    Posts
    168
    Quote Originally Posted by steveG View Post
    The big fat filter is a bypass filter to take smaller particles out of the oil. Some of the oil that goes into the housing is taken via a restrictor and goes through that filter then back into the sump (so not daisy-chained).
    The NPR trucks with 4bd1t had this setup, and had a 12000 km oil change period specified.

    For me, cleaner oil, longer changes (I try to change mine at 10K), and easy spin on filters are all good reasons

    Steve
    Ooops, I've got the cartridge type and have been doing 10k changes, should they be 5k ?


    Also just wondering were the truck twin spin on housing different to the 6x6 Turbo housing? I wouldn't mind going spin on from the convenience perspective and have found a 6x6 Turbo housing and was wondering if I'll have to get the spacer anyway ?

    Cheers,

    Mark

  8. #48
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Brisbane, Queensland
    Posts
    5,350
    The risk with hanging down in that position is a filter canister will connect with the front prop shaft. The spacer moves the filters out to avoid contact with the prop shaft.

    In saying that I think at least one owner has fitted the housing without the spacers.
    L322 tdv8 poverty pack - wow
    Perentie 110 wagon ARN 49-107 (probably selling) turbo, p/steer, RFSV front axle/trutrack, HF, gullwing windows, double jerrys etc.
    Perentie 110 wagon ARN 48-699 another project
    Track Trailer ARN 200-117
    REMLR # 137

  9. #49
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Queensland
    Posts
    3,157
    Quote Originally Posted by 123rover50 View Post
    Just getting around to thinking about fitting this kit.
    Forgot I might have to drill the block.
    Came with 4 lengths of of threaded rod, I guess for the main housing and 2 bolts and nuts.
    How do the bolts and nuts work for the top extension as I thought they would be studs also. Can I drill and tap this top extension for a turbo feed?
    Does it need a restrictor?
    Thanks for the replies but I also wondered why the kit came with two nuts and bolts for the top spacer. How do they work?

  10. #50
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    65
    Quote Originally Posted by rijidij View Post
    The centers of the holes for the top pipe are different by 3mm from my factory 4BD1T to the 4BB1 I have in the shed.

    The great thing about laser cutting or CNC machining is you could elongate the holes like this to allow for both. Someone else might want to confirm the centers on a 4BD1 N/A. Mine are 45mm for the 4BD1T and 42mm for the 4BB1. I would expect late (~'88 on) 4BD1 N/A's to be the same as the turbo block.
    I'm currently going through this process, I have a maybe late 4BD1 (87225C) and the bolt spacing is not the same as a turbo motor. (the N/A oil cooler pipe does not line up with my twin filter housing!)

    These engines appear so similar between turbo and N/A but I keep finding subtle differences lol...

    I'm going to try using the top half of this pipe and making a new bottom end... wish me luck!

    Oh, and I've purchased some M10x1.25 hi tensile threaded rod too... $60-something from united fasteners.
    Anyone doing this with the motor in the vehicle, you should be able to double nut the rod out of the block and lower the whole assembly?

    In-case anyone is wondering:
    AYG473 filter housing to block spacer is NLA from land rover AUS, but KLR have them for $70 (gaskets too)
    AYG0474 top spacer is available from land rover AUS for $306
    8943402580 filter housing and filters from Isuzu $271+
    8941697751 turbo motor pipe to cooler from Isuzu $167+

    Also, I think someone has mentioned the oil return from the bypass filter into sump, and it looks like my block DOES have the return hole drilled.

    Does anyone know about the oil feed that runs from the filter housing to the front of the timing cover at the center of the injector pump?
    Surely it's not lubrication because it is absent on the N/A motor. Is it some sort of timing advance? part number 8944619791

    EDIT: Somehow I missed the page where nugget is offering a kit including the spacers for $260. I should have bought that.

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