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Thread: exhaust manifold torque wrench settings

  1. 16th December 2013, 07:21 PM #1
    mattmac
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    exhaust manifold torque wrench settings

    Can someone please tell me the torque wrench settings for the exhaust manifold on 4bd1.
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  2. 16th December 2013, 08:32 PM #2
    Blknight.aus's Avatar
    Blknight.aus
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    from memory 40Nm.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
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    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


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  3. 17th December 2013, 06:15 AM #3
    Bush65
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    Copy from my manual.
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  4. 17th December 2013, 07:05 AM #4
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    Blknight.aus
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    I'll stand corrected emei has it at 25Nm.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
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  5. 17th December 2013, 08:00 AM #5
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    Judo
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    Hmmm is doing them up really tight a bad idea then? Maybe I should have RTFM...
    - Justin

    '95 Disco 300TDI - sold
    '86 County 110 Isuzu
    2006 Range Rover Vogue td6
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  6. 17th December 2013, 12:41 PM #6
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    steveG
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    Quote Originally Posted by Judo View Post
    Hmmm is doing them up really tight a bad idea then? Maybe I should have RTFM...
    Depends on the "really tight" amount. If the studs break or you tear the threads out of the head then yes
    If you used a normal length spanner or 3/8 drive ratchet/bar and didn't gorilla them you should be fine I reckon (mine have been ).

    Steve
    1985 County - Isuzu 4bd1 with HX30W turbo, LT95, 255/85-16 KM2's
    1988 120 with rust and potential
    1999 300tdi 130 single cab - "stock as bro"
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  7. 17th December 2013, 01:06 PM #7
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    Yeah, normal length spanner on a 8.8 stainless M8 bolt with hex head. I think that's a 12mm spanner? I'm far from the strongest person in the world, so I guess I'll leave it. If any break, I'll back them off and start again. Sounds like a flawless plan.
    - Justin

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    '86 County 110 Isuzu
    2006 Range Rover Vogue td6
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  8. 17th December 2013, 06:35 PM #8
    mattmac
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    Didn't use torque wrench just did them up tight with 3/8th drive socket- almost forgot to put the dipstick tube back behind manifold before bolting back up - I'm sure it's been done before? the other problem i encountered was the new gaskets i received were not the genuine isuzu but Payen(JC 336-metal type ) which had solid flat section between the gasket pieces so had to carefully cut the middle section on left gasket to make a gap for bolting up dipstick and heater hose bracket- bit of a PITA.
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  9. 18th December 2013, 09:24 AM #9
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    My dipstick is on the outside of the manifold, but I had to bend it around a fair bit to make it fit where I wanted.
    - Justin

    '95 Disco 300TDI - sold
    '86 County 110 Isuzu
    2006 Range Rover Vogue td6
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  10. 18th December 2013, 08:01 PM #10
    mattmac
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    my dipstick tube has a bracket attached that bolts to the block between manifold gasket - same bolt that secures the heater pipe bracket.
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