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If you want a wagon.. and a 4bd1.. I can't help but wonder why you wouldn't just grab a 110 County with the factory 4BD1, drop in a turbo and fix all the broken bits. The turbo is your only engineering requirement (unless you want to mod other things) but all in all it can be as easy or hard as you like.
There are a bunch for sale at the moment for half what the mil ones are going for. Hell if mine keeps going the way it is it will be in the markets too!
Haha know that feeling...Quote:
Originally Posted by flagg
I'm at the point of deciding if I drop a few (more) grand into my County or buy a third car aka an ex-mil 110...because there is logic in having three Land Rovers i'm sure :angel:
I figure i'll keep my wagon and if the chassis or firewall gets too bad then i'd have a gal chassis and better firewall to swap the body on to. Goannashire had a thread about swapping a wagon body onto his exmil One Ten. Not a job I could consider in the next few years though!
Something to keep in mind is what its actually going to cost.
My experience (and backed up when chatting with others) is that its going to cost you $15K+ to end up with a well sorted Isuzu County.
My definition of well sorted is: turbo'd, reliable, at least a rear locker, decent set of tyres, decent brakes, some soundproofing and suitable electrics for touring.
Some may think $15K is over the top - but that's been my experience.
Edit: just to clarify, that's doing all your own work/mechanicals.
Steve
Easily, in my experience.Quote:
Originally Posted by steveG
To give some idea. I'm trying to get the ball rolling on an Isuzu 4bd1t and matching msa5-g gearbox into an 82 RRC.
I assume I can list prices for the budget? Where I write 'say' then I have not got, but have made enquiries. Remember I live in Darwin so some things may cost a bit to get from interstate.
Vehicle $200 (cheapest component of the whole project already has 2" lift)
Isuzu engine/gearbox $1500
gearbox/transfercase adaptor say $3000
engineering cert and cert welder say $1000
new seat upholstery/belts and general clean up say $1000
new front springs and bits say $1000
So far under $8k, but allow for unexpected so say $9.
Drive train is relatively weak. Now the optional but probably necessary stuff.
Heavy duty axles/front and rear lockers/cvs/centre diff torque biaser/front radius arm upgrade/winch/home made nudge bar (some I've got) but say $10k
I'm beginning to scare myself :( but $19 - maybe $16 if you drop the torque bias and radius arms, bit less if drop front locker.
If the untried engine and gearbox needs work then say $2k.
To kind of put it into perspective a friend bought a Prado for $60k+. Then spent $20k+ on mods, or more than my budget, but still doesn't have the approach/departure/ramp over of my standard Disco 1 :) let alone the eventual capability of the RRC build. But then he is able to risk his life at 160kmph+ with his new chip, 'big lift', and speed underrated tyres and huge fuel consumption.
Why not an Isuzu County instead of RRC? County command a good price as a base vehicle. Nothing really in Darwin. Not all that comfortable relative to the sedan RRC, but admit a good camper base. You will need to keep the associated LRover gearbox in good nick because the engine is potentially hard on it (keep a spare in the garage) or go the MSA5-G route and expense of adaptor and bell housing/clutch change. And you will probably replace some of the running gear ie get locker. Turbo? Less aerodynamic so cost more in fuel. My guess is the cost of this will be similar to my RRC conversion.
Ex-army. Prices seem to vary a lot - guy here got his soft top for about $6k which I thought was good. No aircon or power steering - not essential but many people like - power steering conversion about $2k - aircon ?. So base price and lot of work and money to convert to carrying more than two if you got the soft top and want to go hard top. Pay more for the less common ex-mil station wagon hardtop. Soft top not my idea of a tourer. Then do you want lockers, turbo etc?
In terms of the level of effort required. Good tool set. Engine cranes are relatively cheap. Welder. Main alterations to chassis will be engine mounts. Not sure yet if gearbox mounts will require work to the chassis. Everything else is mostly bolt on or a bit of drilling, dare I say sewing.
Regardless of vehicle body type, and whether LRover or other brand, try and get the best cheapest vehicle to start, preferably with some mods already on. Some people, non-enthusiasts, virtually give away their Disco 1 after the shock of ownership. Maybe you just need a Disco Tdi300?
Yes we all know that feeling, but I still hope no one sells up!Quote:
Originally Posted by isuzutoo-eh
I have the exact same theory with the ex mil 110's. I went and looked at them last weekend and managed to get SWMBO to pro-actively suggest it would be good to buy one in the future and use it as parts to make 1 better quality 110. :D That might be a few years away though... (when the prices are even cheaper).
Completely agree for most County's. I haven't finished yet, but have a relatively clear picture of what is required and I don't see any change from $15k. Any less and it will be because I'm deferring some work that will just need to be done a bit later.Quote:
Originally Posted by steveG
With that in mind, I think that's where an ex mil 110 COULD knock a few grand off. Some of them are great condition for around $6k and they're only going to get cheaper. Definitely can't get a good condition County for $6k. But there are pros and cons to consider either way...
If you bought an ex-mil 110 for 6 grand, it'll be a soft top, still a long way from the usefulness of a wagon. Try and build a wagon from a soft top and you'll be looking at sinking a fair few thousand to get a wagon roof, tub, doors, body swap approval etc, plus power steering and all the other County niceties.Quote:
Originally Posted by Judo
I don't think there's any cheap way to do this...except buying one already sorted, and even then it won't suit the new owner 100% :p
I.. ah.. know someone who over the years may have spent twice that.Quote:
Originally Posted by steveG
I (I mean they) had fairly simple plans initially, but somehow they snowballed... diffs, bearings, electricals, bits of rust etc. nothing major on its own, and you have to fix them to make the whole thing worth while - and they all add up.
Already have a 300tdi with all sorts of bells and whistles and reliability issues. Like the idea of a gal chassis but unfortunately need the more seats two kids and a fussy wife. :wasntme:Quote:
Originally Posted by workingonit
Sorry, forgot your second post explaining unwell Tdi300. I think you're going to have to get the Corolla or Excel. My daughter drives a Disco I bought her. She wanted a small car, and wasn't keen at first on a Disco. Pointed out the Disco was the same length as a Corolla (it is). To make the DIsco look good I used to pick her up from her part time job in a rusted old Ford Laser - the type of vehicle where the door edge grinds over the misaligned fender :) Anyway, she came home in heavy rain in the Disco, with a smile, apparently having negotiated a flooded section of the highway where lots of small cars had become immobile. She's somewhat convinced now of the merits of the Disco - and she loves the cup holders. Got another Disco lined up for the son, but he don't care as long as its free!