Thread: sump depth

I assume the captive bolts are what I called the studs. I.E. Half the sump was held on with normal bolts, the other half have thread coming out of the block and you put nuts on.

I found the base of the captive bolts was larger than the holes in the sump, so the only choice was to remove the captive bolts and use normal bolts, or widen about half the holes in the sump.

Sounds like exactly what you have found also.

I removed all the captive bolts/studs and used normal stainless bolts and RTV silicone.

Cheers judo, now to get the bloody studs out

hehe yep, like with most jobs, it's not as easy as it seems and requires a new tool. I bought a stud remover tool to get a few of them out. Some came out by hand or with multi-grips or double nuts, but there was of course a couple that were bastards.

Stud removal tool

Will try matts option, the good old mig at least then I can get the sump back on today and get it running again before I go away.

Originally Posted by Vern

Will try matts option, the good old mig at least then I can get the sump back on today and get it running again before I go away.

What - you're going to weld the sump on

Originally Posted by steveG

What - you're going to weld the sump on

Quite practical on a Isuzu

Never thought to do that steve. All studs removed, cut down 24 bolts, and the sump is back on and its running again.
Setting up the Dawes valve now, but have to remove the Turbo to tap a fitting in for the boost, bugger

Originally Posted by Vern

Never thought to do that steve. All studs removed, cut down 24 bolts, and the sump is back on and its running again.
Setting up the Dawes valve now, but have to remove the Turbo to tap a fitting in for the boost, bugger

Good work with the sump.
Can you just drop the compressor housing off to tap it rather than removing the whole turbo?

Found this in my shed this morning: theTurdis110

No work on the 120 for a while yet

Steve