Thread: 4BD1T MSA5G Range Rover Classic Outcast Adaptor

My engine mount sits less than 5 mm from the steering box.

As for opening the pics, right click and 'open in new window' , should come up full screen.

Originally Posted by workingonit

For some, the most interesting part of the thread. You get shaft, housing, chassis mount, shifter, oil seal and bolts. Note: comparison of adaptor machining and original gearbox cover; and slot inside main cavity where you insert a socket to lock up the drive flange when tightening flange bolt.

Why would you intentionally make a part like that out of balance?

If it's not too late, I'd take that shaft back out, throw it back to them so they can notch the opposite side to balance it.

Originally Posted by Dougal

Why would you intentionally make a part like that out of balance?

If it's not too late, I'd take that shaft back out, throw it back to them so they can notch the opposite side to balance it.

I think the Isuzu will have enough vibration in it to keep you happy without adding more

Pibby, as Vern says. Just clicking on the pic gives small image. Now you'll have to go back and see them all again

Dougal, you don't just 'send stuff back' from Darwin - the cost would be equal to NZGDP But seriously, yes I did wonder and calculated roughly 720 rpm at 100kmh hmmm...would it vibrate. Got lathe and mill so I may end up just notching it myself as per your suggestion. The notch is for locking while doing up bolts if not clear to other readers. And no, the shaft is not yet in place - what I'm presenting is basically a mock up so I can figure the engine mounts. Everything is going to come out once the mounts are done, so I can respray the chassis, fix things on the engine etc.

Next step the chassis mounts - just pondering if I can bend class 350 6mm to maintain plate strength rather than hack out lots of little pieces and weld.

Ancient, I don't mind the traditional diesel clatter...provided it smooths out a bit on acceleration.

Originally Posted by workingonit

Pibby, as Vern says. Just clicking on the pic gives small image. Now you'll have to go back and see them all again

Dougal, you don't just 'send stuff back' from Darwin - the cost would be equal to NZGDP But seriously, yes I did wonder and calculated roughly 720 rpm at 100kmh hmmm...would it vibrate. Got lathe and mill so I may end up just notching it myself as per your suggestion. The notch is for locking while doing up bolts if not clear to other readers. And no, the shaft is not yet in place - what I'm presenting is basically a mock up so I can figure the engine mounts. Everything is going to come out once the mounts are done, so I can respray the chassis, fix things on the engine etc.

Next step the chassis mounts - just pondering if I can bend class 350 6mm to maintain plate strength rather than hack out lots of little pieces and weld.

Ancient, I don't mind the traditional diesel clatter...provided it smooths out a bit on acceleration.

At 100km/h my engine is doing 2000rpm and the gearbox output shaft is doing about 2,500rpm.

I'd balance it.

I'm not convinced the notch even needs to be there. You've got several existing options to stop the shaft rotating while doing/undoing bolts. None of which throw balance out.

At 100 kph in 5th with my 3.0 diffs the shaft is doing 1431 rpm. you could chuck the small end in the lathe spin it and convince yourself Why spoil a nice job for half a hole As Dougal said mill the opposite hole

AM

Thanks for the calculations...umm I forgot to multiply by diff ratio.

Will take your advice.

Took the swan neck steering rod off the drop arm to find that a previous owner had welded the ball join onto the swan neck! Considering swapping the drop arm for a Disco 'less hassle changing the ball' type.