Thread: 4BD1T MSA5G Range Rover Classic Outcast Adaptor

Yeah might not matter in your model compared to mine. My shifter is 315mm further back from where yours is and my transcase shifter is 175mm in front of my gear shifter

Do you drive from the back seat? I think my gearstick would have to be mounted on the adaptor case if I went back your distance. Did you keep the original transfercase position?

Do you have a photo of your setup somewhere here?

Just had a look. Keeping the stick short, when in forward selection, my knuckles may be shy of touching or may just touch the dash, just under the slide selectors for the aircon/heater. I'm judging this by the position of the outrigger hole on the chassis, and the corresponding hole in the coach work.

I have scope for moving the stick mount back by about 50-60 mm before starting to interfere with the spring rack. Will involve unpicking the stick mount weld and re-welding in new position. Drilling one hole. Making one linkage a bit longer.

I think you've made a valid observation, that in its current position it might be a close call - but I think I have some wiggle room. Otherwise? The dash will just have to go...series one range rover.

You converted yours to soft dash?

Originally Posted by Dervish

I'm not a Mech. Eng., but I'm close enough to know a little about shaft design. The transition in radii where the shaft broke is just too abrupt; as others have said.




Kt - stress concentration factor.

I did run the numbers, but as it was a rough calculation based on eyeballing the picture above I won't post them. If you're getting a new shaft made, consider putting a larger radius in that transition. It may well have been misalignment, heat treating or the material; but that shaft design would've exacerbated the problem.

I've only just got around to reading some of this thread...

You're quite right. I look at this now and think 'what was I thinking'. This radius should be larger.

Unfortunately on new designs, sometimes things are over looked. Even worse - critical things.

I am sincerely sorry to Vern to stuff up his holiday. If he eventually moves up to Qld, I'll help him make for that lost holiday.


On a positive note, this and other design improvements have now been made.

Originally Posted by workingonit

Do you drive from the back seat? I think my gearstick would have to be mounted on the adaptor case if I went back your distance. Did you keep the original transfercase position?

Do you have a photo of your setup somewhere here?

Just had a look. Keeping the stick short, when in forward selection, my knuckles may be shy of touching or may just touch the dash, just under the slide selectors for the aircon/heater. I'm judging this by the position of the outrigger hole on the chassis, and the corresponding hole in the coach work.

I have scope for moving the stick mount back by about 50-60 mm before starting to interfere with the spring rack. Will involve unpicking the stick mount weld and re-welding in new position. Drilling one hole. Making one linkage a bit longer.

I think you've made a valid observation, that in its current position it might be a close call - but I think I have some wiggle room. Otherwise? The dash will just have to go...series one range rover.

You converted yours to soft dash?

gearstick in factory position as is the transfercase.


And no, i sit in the front seat

Nice photos Vern. Yes, our locations for the sticks are quite different.

And you've got a hoist in the lounge!

For anyone.

Just got some new springs (yet to be fitted), front and rear, to compensate for the extra weight of the engine. King KRRR-40HD and KRRR-02, handed, the right being taller than the left.

Comparing the right hand to a rear Disco 1 standard spring? (green) the KRRR-02 are approx 45 mm taller. The KRRR-40HD, which I assume are for the front, are approx 35 mm taller - not quite 2 inch overall. The KRRR-40HD guage is approx 18 mm while the Disco 1 is 16 mm - by my calcs a 26% increase in cross section area (201 vs 250).

I'm wondering if the lift 'disappears' under the extra weight, or becomes quite noticeable and therefore requires work on things like longer brake lines, extended A-frame ball joints, panhard etc. Extended brake lines are a given as the springs will be able to fully extend when weight is off (and they need replacement anyway). But is there any noticeable difference in road handling without further work? I've actually replaced every rubber on the chassis except the panhard, plus new A-frame ball.

I'm assuming once I get the coach work back on the body I will be in for a 2 inch body lift as well.

Anyone happy with the seat belt arrangement in these older vehicles - not to mention the seat doesn't seem to recline, but only move back and forth? All seat belt mounts are on the seat. Gives me the heebie geebies (and in comes the spell checker) to think my life is dependent on this arrangement - any of you driving around with a rather rusted floor???

Having stripped the $100 Disco 1 I've been able to compare safety cells, and seat belt attachment points. As far as I can tell the 1982 RRC B pillar is pretty much identical to the D1. That means in theory I should be able to drill the spot welds on the D1 B pillar and move the top and bottom mounts to the RRC. Then I can get of rid of the RRC seats altogether and install some D1s. Anyone done this?

Transfer case ratios. Ashcroft offer an LT230 1.003 gear set. Apart from larger tyres, is this a path I should pursue to get cruising speeds (100-110kmph) at around 1800-2000 rpm? Getting into drive ratios is a new area for me. I don't take the bathroom with me when I travel (don't tow). Boat only and locally.

What size tyres? If smaller than 33's i would run the 1.003 with msa5g. I tried the 1.222 with msa5g and 33's and it was terrible. 1st gear was non existant, shifting between gears was short.
My new combo is 1.192 tcase and msa5r. This will give me a better first, and good 5th, but the middle gears will be better for towing in hilly conditions.

Excuse the screen shot.
Solid line is the msa5r with 1.192 case.
Dotted line is msa5g witg 1.003 case.

Got 29's on the RRC, as with all my other vehicles.

Was going to stick to smaller tyres if possible. Got to consider the legal limit of lift over factory. I can do 150 mm total over factory in the NT - the paper work says anything over 150 mm will not be considered. But then you see some of the lifts rolling around town! Or should I say wobbling down the highway struggling to stay in lane.

Did you try the 33's with 1.003? 33's will probably be the limit for me.

Bought some second hand 31x16inch muds for keeping other vehicles mobile around the block - was going to try them on the RRC when getting to that point.

What site are you using for the comparisons? Have mucked about with the Ashcroft ratio calculator but not 100% I'm feeding all the right info.

What tyre size is in the calculations?

Looks like first is not much different, but better 2nd 3rd 4th ratios for the 'r', but then 5th coming close again to the 'g' box. Going to hit the 100kmph at slightly lower revs (1800) with the 'g' and seems to be what I'm after or what the threads seem to say is desirable!?

The tyres.

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Spare parts bin.

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