LT95 lost 1st gear

Sounds like you've had a bad run with the old box, but hopefully the troubles are over now and you can get on with enjoying driving it :)

Steve

That is a bit of a saga, but glad you got it all repaired and didn't just give up on it and sell it on (I bet your wife was nagging at you to do that :D)

FYI, when doing the diff seal, a rattle gun makes light work of the nut. ;) Its a worthwhile investment if you spin your own spanners a lot. Just don't go cheap and nasty - the cheaper ones don't have anywhere near the torque of a good one. :)

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Originally Posted by bacicat

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FYI, when doing the diff seal, a rattle gun makes light work of the nut. ;) Its a worthwhile investment if you spin your own spanners a lot. Just don't go cheap and nasty - the cheaper ones don't have anywhere near the torque of a good one. :)

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Agreed, just not for doing it up again on a salisbury ;)

Steve

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Originally Posted by steveG

Agreed, just not for doing it up again on a salisbury ;)

Steve

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No. :) A bit more finese is required.

Whoops, borrowed a better compressor and good rattle gun and used that to get nut off. Marked the nut and counted the turns but it was so tight I used the rattle gun to tighten back up as well.

Time will tell. My mechanical skills can only improve. Thanks for all help everyone.

What is the large bolt head on the LT95's rear, at 4 0'clock of the inspection plate?

And how important is the locking plate for that bolt head, particularly when running the motor, or indeed moving the truck around the yard under its own power (low range 2nd-4th, reverse gears)?

Have already assumed the inspection plate needs to be secure, due to the bearing attached internally. :/

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Originally Posted by DBT

What is the large bolt head on the LT95's rear, at 4 0'clock of the inspection plate?

And how important is the locking plate for that bolt head, particularly when running the motor, or indeed moving the truck around the yard under its own power (low range 2nd-4th, reverse gears)?

Have already assumed the inspection plate needs to be secure, due to the bearing attached internally. :/

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Are you talking about the large bolt with the locking tab in between the 2 covers on the rear of the transfer case. That's the bolt that holds the intermediate shaft together. It has to be torqued to 125 ft/lb and has the lock tab to ensure it doesn't come loose or you will have a lot of chattering in the transfer.

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Originally Posted by Bearman

Are you talking about the large bolt with the locking tab in between the 2 covers on the rear of the transfer case. That's the bolt that holds the intermediate shaft together. It has to be torqued to 125 ft/lb and has the lock tab to ensure it doesn't come loose or you will have a lot of chattering in the transfer.

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Yeah. That one.

Could the bolt come loose with the engine idling in neutral?

:(

Ahem. 4BD1. Right. I'll put the locking tab back on then.

.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by DBT

Yeah. That one.

Could the bolt come loose with the engine idling in neutral?

:(

Ahem. 4BD1. Right. I'll put the locking tab back on then.

.

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If the bolt is torqued up properly it is unlikely it will come loose even without the locktab, but why would you take it off?

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Originally Posted by Bearman

If the bolt is torqued up properly it is unlikely it will come loose even without the locktab, but why would you take it off?

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So I could get the cover off. The tab was secured by one of the cover bolts and was also obstructing removal of the cover. It was "reluctant" to be removed from the shaft bolt head. It may or may not be slightly deformed now. :angel:

The cover is back on now. So I will reinstall the (still workable) locking tab too.

(also the clip that holds the (handbrake? ) cable, which is held by one of the other cover bolts).

All good. :)