LT95 lost 1st gear

Thanks Brian and Dave.

Dave, the key symptoms prior to permanent departure of 1st gear:

Jumping out of 1st gear when moving off. Initially I attributed this to 1st gear not fully selected, but this became more frequent, despite all care in selecting. (There was a subtle yet distinct "double notch" when selecting first gear). Maintaining moderate effort on gear stick was ineffective. If it was going to jump, my hand on the stick wasn't going to stop it.

Jamming in 1st gear when engine idling and wheels stationery, requiring a light "bump" of the clutch to allow disengagement of first gear. Example: waiting at red light, selecting 1st gear when expecting green light, green light not forthcoming, attempt to return to neutral, gear stick jammed in first. Clutch fully depressed throughout this time. Briefly "bumping" the clutch on the friction point unjammed the stick and allowed selection of neutral. Or one could wait for the green light, as there was no issue leaving first gear once rolling.

Now, if I select first, there is zero "drive effort". You can hear a relatively quiet, weak grinding, with no noticable feedback through the stick.

Here's a photo of the rear main shaft, as-is (Apologies for upside-down photo).

sticking in gear is usually the precursor to the shaft fracture faillure.


It can tie into a syncro locking up if its deformed after being abused. But I've ony ever heard of that and not seen it. the normal failure for a syncro is to fight selection, then throw it out all the time and then just plain refuse to engage it.

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Originally Posted by DBT

Thanks Brian and Dave.

Dave, the key symptoms prior to permanent departure of 1st gear:

Jumping out of 1st gear when moving off. Initially I attributed this to 1st gear not fully selected, but this became more frequent, despite all care in selecting. (There was a subtle yet distinct "double notch" when selecting first gear). Maintaining moderate effort on gear stick was ineffective. If it was going to jump, my hand on the stick wasn't going to stop it.

Jamming in 1st gear when engine idling and wheels stationery, requiring a light "bump" of the clutch to allow disengagement of first gear. Example: waiting at red light, selecting 1st gear when expecting green light, green light not forthcoming, attempt to return to neutral, gear stick jammed in first. Clutch fully depressed throughout this time. Briefly "bumping" the clutch on the friction point unjammed the stick and allowed selection of neutral. Or one could wait for the green light, as there was no issue leaving first gear once rolling.

Now, if I select first, there is zero "drive effort". You can hear a relatively quiet, weak grinding, with no noticable feedback through the stick.

Here's a photo of the rear main shaft, as-is (Apologies for upside-down photo).

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Everything looks ok with the snap ring Dave so unfortunately it's a box out job to fix it. Clean it up good before you dismantle it and then pull it apart on a bench with an old towel or sheet on it to catch any loose bits that may fall out. Almost certainly you are going to need a new 1st gear, syncho (baulk) ring, possibly 1/2 synchro outer hub and selector pads. As well as bearings/seals/gaskets etc and a lot of time and patience:D
Hopefully you won't need a new mainshaft or layshaft. Use genuine syncho rings and gasket kit. Also I would check the oil pump while you have it apart and if it's not the newer steel type replace it as well. I recently replaced the clutch in my 6by and checked the pump while I had the engine out and was a bit surprised to find mine had the old bakelite type one in it. Being a 1998 build I would have thought it would have had the later type. Another upgrade you could do while it's apart is fit a modified pivot pin for the clutch fork. The original ones just fit in a collar in the alloy bellhousing and the good old Isuzu rattles them around a bit and ends up pretty loose in the hole.

There is a guy close to me (Singleton) with a wrecked V8 Stage one. It has the 4 speed box still in it 80,000 ks on speedo. Will this box suit. Maybe, those with more knowledge can advise. Cheers, Wollomi.

Hey Wollomi,

If it's an equivalent box I would be interested. Singleton is just up the road from me.

I think the Perentie LT95s are modified though. So not sure if that would work.

Thanks for the info.

The stage1 box is different, but AFAIK only in the bellhousing and transfer areas. The bellhousing for the V8 is different (but just bolts on the front of the gearbox so easy to swap).

Perentie has the tapered roller intermediate shaft in the transfer and different high range ratio than stage1. Pretty straightforward to swap over the intermediate shaft and also need to swap the matching high range gear from the center diff.
The Stage1 output housings and handbrake are different from a 110/Perentie LT95. Stage1 has longer front housing, and rear housing has smaller handbrake (like rangie LT95's).
Pretty sure there are transfer selector linkage differences between the stage1 and Perentie but I don't have details.

Since its your main box thats got issues, if you can pick up another one with a good main box for relatively cheap I'd say grab it. You've then got the option of using it for parts to fix yours, or just swapping your transfer bits and bellhousing over and fitting it.

Steve

Is there a full re-build kit available for the 95a?

Mine baulks at going into 1st on the first try every time, feels like there is a 'reverse spring' blocking it (best way I can think to describe the resistance). Goes into 1st every time once you drop back to neutral and then go up to 1st again.
Also crunches going into reverse when you are tail down on a hill. flat or nose pointing down-slope and no crunching.

Those symptoms along with an awful high-speed grinding noise at high speed which I think is coming from the gearbox (kinda hard to tell when the noise only appears above about 70 under load) leads me to believe that lots of money needs to be spent on it.

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Originally Posted by Chris078

Is there a full re-build kit available for the 95a?

Mine baulks at going into 1st on the first try every time, feels like there is a 'reverse spring' blocking it (best way I can think to describe the resistance). Goes into 1st every time once you drop back to neutral and then go up to 1st again.
Also crunches going into reverse when you are tail down on a hill. flat or nose pointing down-slope and no crunching.

Those symptoms along with an awful high-speed grinding noise at high speed which I think is coming from the gearbox (kinda hard to tell when the noise only appears above about 70 under load) leads me to believe that lots of money needs to be spent on it.

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Mine is often reluctant to go into 1st, particulary at traffic lights when they go green... Not crunching, the lever just doesnt want to go there. Putting it into third or reverse usually seems to then facilitate it going into 1st. I dont have the other symptons you describe.

tht can be a sign of worn cones on first and a dragging clutch or spigot bearing.

to proove it.

select first, shut down the engine,select neutral hold the clutch in and restart, if it wont go into first now then the clutch or spigot is dragging. you'll want to fix that or learn to double clutch properly..

and as for not getting into firt on the move..

its a 4bd1, if you have that and your moving you dont need first.

Prior to stripping the teeth on first gear, I experienced the same problem with first gear not allowing selection. No noise, no grinding, just the gear lever would not go in at all. Go to 3rd or 4th and then back usually worked. I suspect the repairs done to my gearbox prior to me buying it were flawed. I have finally got my Perentie back on the road but not without a long dragged out experience. Originally bought it from a guy who had just bought this one, the updated one and a 6x6 from the army auction. I should have waited for the next auction but had not way of knowing when this was to be. He had put this one on the road (registered) but had a gearbox problem. He got a friend of a friend to fix (replace) first gear. I suspect it was not done properly as gears were sticky and hard to get sometimes. Then I stripped all the teeth on first gear. See photos.

Spent 4 weeks (waiting parts and working in less than ideal conditions) and hired a local retired mechanic to assist with repair. Made up a gearbox cradle but could not use it (couldn't lift high enough and even if so, did not have enough clearance when lowered). Made up a lifting hitch and used a motor hoist to pull out gearbox. Replaced all seals, main shaft assembly and first gear, snap rings and genuine gasket set. According to army records, gearbox was changed just prior to auction and looked new inside. I made a bracket up and replaced the rear diff seal and the rear engine seal while I was at it. However, asked mechanic if he checked second gear teeth just before sealing up repaired gearbox as engaging teeth on main shaft looked worn for both 2nd and 1st gear. He said if no trouble before, should be okay. Bugger, took it for first drive and 2nd gear made a meshing noise when being used. First gear also jammed in occasionally. Gave up and took it to local truck mechanical shop, bought a reconditioned gearbox from Queensland for $2,750 delivered (from a company that does it for the army) and paid the local mob $1000 to fit. Even they stuffed up and put the wrong oil in it but I pointed this out before I drove it and they replaced it.

Wife is not too happy as I had convinced her that Landrover was unbreakable and would be trouble free for years to come. I had to sell an old motorbike to cover some of the cost. The Perentie has been back on the road only a couple of weeks now. Gears are smooth and trouble free. Love driving it.