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G'day Cavemantoyboy, Easiest way to check is take the rear cover plate off the back of the transfer case. You should be able to see the snap ring in place behind the gear on the mainshaft. If its come off it will be floating on the end of the shaft when you remove the plate.Quote:
Originally Posted by Cavemantoyboy
MAke sure you tell him all of the swear words...
it wont work if you dont have all of them.
(I suspect that its the snap ring off issue as well, if you'd damaged the syncros youd have had diferent onset symptoms and noises.
Hi Bearman,
I can see it is easy to pull the plate off the back of the gearbox and have a look. You mentioned it was a bit tricky to put the snapring back on and I was hoping for all the info in advance. I would prefer not to drive the 110 like it is but if need be I can drive it 10kms and put it over a pit. Otherwise I do not mind laying in the mud and fixing it where it is.
Your thoughts appreciated.
From 104-1...
hopefully the resizer hasnt messed with it.
Attachment 93164
10k's aint going to hurt it. I will PM my number, it is easier to tell you over the phone than type it. Cheers....BrianQuote:
Originally Posted by Cavemantoyboy
Hi Brian & Dave. Is there risk of additional damage to the 'box from driving in this condition ... assuming it's the snap ring issue?Quote:
Originally Posted by Bearman
I have driven a tad more than 10k's so far.:(
I'm already assuming increased clutch wear, due to 2nd gear starts (I'm not attempting Low-High rolling shifts yet and seriously avoiding hill starts).
What about the 'box itself?
Thanks again.
If it is the snap ring come loose, the mainshaft can now float back and forward a few mm and this is what stops 1st from engaging. In other words the selector sleeve now cannot reach the engaging dogs on the gear. The last flat thrust washer behind 1st gear would now have fallen off the lip it sits on and be flopping around on the shaft. The quicker you rectify this the less damage will be done. If the thrust washer or bearing is damaged its a box out job to fix. If it is not damaged you should be able to get it back in place without box removal. How you do this is as below
1...take rear pto plate off and confirm snapring is not seated in its groove
2...Take snapring, shim,gear and spacer off the rear of the mainshaft.
3....Put box in neutral and rotate shaft by hand while pulling back lightly on
shaft. You need patience and it could take quite a while to get the
washer back in its correct position. You will feel it move backwards a
little when it does. Then put the box in 3rd gear so the shaft cannot move forward again when you slide the spacer and gear on and reverse the procedure. If it in the correct place you should be able to fit the spacer,gear,shim and snapring in place and there should be minimal mainshaft endfloat. If the snapring wont fit on, the thrust washer or bearing may be damaged and its a box out job to rectify:( If it will (try the snapring on the outside first) take everything back off, clean it all thoroughly including the end of the mainshaft) prime it with loctite primer and then loctite the spacer and gear on the shaft. Make sure you only put loctite on the rear 2/3 of the inside of the spacer. (you dont want any to get into the main rear bearing) As I said you will need patience, it could take you a few hours or a few minutes to get that thrust washer back in its place, but it is still better that a box removal job. Good luck.
Brian,
Is the rear plate "wet"? Will removing it release the oil?
Or can oil be left in while doing all this?
Thanks again.
While there is a gasket keeping the oil in, the oil level when in the driveway is way below. No dramas pulling that cover with the oil in it.Quote:
Originally Posted by DBT
while the rear cover plate is in place you're unlikely to cause any problems, yes excessive driving is going to eventually cause damage but the little bit your going to do isnt going to harm it.
3rd gear is the secret to not having additional hassles when you pull the back plate off as per the attachement I put up from the 104-1. if you cant read it wing me you email in a pm and I'll send the original jpg over.
you have to be very unlucky for it to go west if its the circlip when you do the circlip but if it goes west its a basic box out and overhaul level work to fix it.
I've seen as many different techniques for holding everything where it needs to be as I know mechanics that have done the work and the method I tend to use is the one that I have the tools on hand to pull off at the time.
