I have heard that there is a small filter on the inlet side of the injector pump. This may need attention.
Hi, again.
Specifically I can pump fuel manually to the bleed screw but fuel to the injectors is miniscule out of one injector delivery pipe and none out of the other 3. Does anyone have any ideas what the problem might be?
The vehicle started very well, then sat for 6 months without being started. And now I have this problem!
Cheers
I have heard that there is a small filter on the inlet side of the injector pump. This may need attention.
Thanks ajhfc1953...I'll check it out!
first up are you getting fuel out of the bleed screw on the injector pump.
if you can manually prime fuel to the fuel filter bleed and then to the injector pump bleed and you are getting fuel without bubbles in it then the problem is not the lift pump strainer (at least for getting it to idle, full power might be a different story)
once you have fuel at the injector pump bleed if its been sitting for a while unprimed then all you need to do is set the full fuel position (hold the accelerator flat to the floor) set the fuel position to run (make sure the electric cut motor allows the fuel arm to move to the run position and isnt hanging up) and crank it.
Initially crank it with all 4 of the injector unions cracked off. then when they start to spit fuel tighten up 2 of the unions (1_4 or 2_3) and go again, it'll start to try to run and if your lucky will run, you should then shut it down and tighten the unions. you can tighten the unions with the engine running but be careful of the fuel its under pressure.
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
Thanks for your comments. They were very instructive.
Background:
The initial problem was that it wouldn't shut down with the key.
I left the vehicle at a friends property and couldn't get back to it for 6 months as I was touring. From what I've been able to ascertain the son of the friend tried to get it going. Now I don't know if he was successful or not, but when I returned to it, the battery was missing and there was one there out of one of the 6x6's. It wouldn't start for me though it had always been a non issue beforehand.
Current:
I tried yesterday to crank it with just one inlet line open, and with full throttle, and it wouldn't fire.
Someone today suggested that the timing belt might be broken. I am not a good mechanic so I wouldn't have the knowledge to know that just from listening to the sound of the motor cranking over. I can tell when something is not right, but not necessarily why!
So if there is a problem with the high pressure pumping side of the injectors, how might I address that?
Cheers
Jack
Be careful about taking any more advice from the guy who said the timing belt may be broken- (it has a chain)
In case you need to find out about the filter mentioned above anyway ...
There's a photo and instruction from post#26 (IIRC) in the following tread
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/isuzu-land...pump-died.html
"search" can really be your friend on this site![]()
And theres the problem.
the fuel shut off is most likely not returning to the run position.
if you still have the electric motor make sure it winds with the key, it is possible (although very rare) for it to get itself out of phase with life, more common is electrical issues with it, it seizing up or blowing its fuse.
when you ignition on/off you should hear a noise like an old wiper motor doing one stroke when the ignition goes on or off. If you dont have that then your first issue is to fault find the wind motor or bypass it and use a manual control.
once you find the fuel cut cable (theres only 2 cables and one goes to the go pedal, if you need to have someone work the noisey pedal while you look at the pump) disconnect it. have your offsider crank the engine with their foot all the way to the floor while you operate the remaining lever. it'll spit fuel out the injector or start and run when you get the lever in the go position.
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
I also reckon it's an issue with the stop motor
The lever defaults to start so if you disconnect the cable from the pump it will spring into position and should start, to shut it off afterwards its just a matter of pulling on the lever until it stops
Also have you pulled off your filter and had a look inside? Just to make sure you haven't got a gutload of water in and been sucked in to the fuel pump/injectors?
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