What have I got?

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Originally Posted by Lewy110

Yes those wheels look very chunky.

Reading your thread you said you had County seats for yours.

You may find that they are the standard seats. Mine has County seats in it too.

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Yes, those two wheels look later than series III.
The seats and the front doors came from a brown county donor vehicle. I saw that happening.
If I keep them I'll need to re-upholster them.
The last pic you sent doesn't seem to show SIII seats either. I thought maybe the delux units might have been the spec but they're taller again.
The county doors with flashy new fangled wind-up windows might not be the go either. Will likely revert to original.

Thanks for the info.
Rob.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Rob king

Thanks Garry.
The guy who sold it still has the safari roofed lid in the yard but the body seems long gone.
My boy can already manage the '78 SIII so that one shouldn't be an issue.
I'd look at it more as a loan.... but I expect he'll want something more 'comfortable' anyway.
Rob.

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Well Garry, there's more to this it seems..
My mate who sold it dropped in for a beer or 3 yesterday afternoon. I mentioned your thoughts on keeping it original, and he said 'well its all there'... I said it's only the roof left.... 'No the rest is dismantled and stacked neatly under it, out of the weather... its all yours'...

So many options now... Better look for a shed!
Rob.

Well if you want it as a work/farm vehicle then keep it as it is - as a classic etc then change it back - however it is your vehicle and you should do what you want as there will always be a million people with different ideas.

One thing though - I would grab the panels - that way no matter what you choose, you will always have them if you change your mind or can be sold with the vehicle so a future owner can change it back.

Decisions, decisions [bigsmile1]

Garry

Yes, thanks Garry, I'm thinking along those lines.
That's why I need more storage.
Ideally I'll reconstruct the wagon too. See what's missing and see where it takes me.
Having thrown a few things out in the past and lived to regret it, I've learnt my lesson.
I saw a tray back and a 2 door wagon at the expo, a 4 door wagon is growing on me.
But, my son gets his 'L's next week so I'm locked into the ute option in the short term.
Will update as things happen.
Cheers,
Rob.

I’d take it back to original if it was me. The 4BD1 stage 1 wagon is now pretty rare. From my observations the diesel stage 1 utes were slightly more popular. The Isuzu stage 1 set up, I think would have been very popular in the classic RR, and possibly sought internationally.

I finally got the the stage 1 out of my mates shed last weekend he pumped the tyres and we moved it around to my garage along with many boxes of bits.....
(An old neighbour told me today that it's been in his shed since at least 1998, so it hasn't moved in 20 years)
Firstly I found and fitted the bonnet stay, then the alternator and bracket, found and freed up the seized heater tap, connected all the heater and radiator hoses, installed a new battery and turned the key...just to see what would happen.
On the second crank it caught me by surprise and fired up! [thumbsupbig].... I scrambled to fill the cooling system but it cut out after about 15 seconds. (original fuel too)
At this stage I was unaware of the manual engine stop cable, and only being used to petrol engines assumed without thinking that the knob was a choke!.... more the wiser now...
It didn't want to restart for a while, especially with the 'choke' out.. but I gave the injectors a good prime and tried again. This time it ran well and I let it idle for 15-20 mins while I bled the cooling system.
The engine ran smoothly, no smoke revved well. I then went for a drive on the vacant block next door and ran through a few gears. Very surprised by the much lighter steering and tighter transmission (not to mention much more torquey and responsive engine) compared to my 2.6 SIII. Sheer luxury!
The temp gauge rose slightly and all seemed well except the green oil pressure light was on.
That I suppose may be the sensor, disconnected wiring, contaminated oil (looks ok), the filter, the pressure release valve, the oil pump or even engine. But the engine sounds fine so I'll start at the cheap end of the list.
Will replace all the oils, fluids and filters now.The vendor tells me that among the last things he did was replace the clutch and air cleaner.
I've read some good advice from this place from a few years ago re oils, and it seems I'll go with a good 15w40 synth diesel oil for the engine. The LT95 box and transfer seems to be a hotly contested subject. I am leaning toward a good grade of manual transmission oil like multitrax. And like my series III the diffs and hubs I expect are EP 80w90. I put green Nulon coolant in the radiator today but I need a specification on that to be sure it's right.
In fact I really need an owners and / or workshop manual for a series III stage 1 Isuzu, (is there even such a thing?) or at least the specifications for a 4BD1, since I have no idea what the capacities are and how much to buy.
A mechanic mate did at least warn me that the oil must be changed very regularly (5000km) because of diesel blowback, or to get the injectors serviced regularly (which no-one wants to do, $$) But said the engine is a great workhorse.
I was given a set of wheels by Lewy110 (thanks mate) and they will go on tomorrow once I've cleaned and assessed the brakes and slave cylinders.
The wiring is a real mess and lots not connected after the front end was removed for a repaint... will hopefully sort that out using some logic, but,..... since Muddy is coming down in 10 days or so, maybe I should defer to his electrical wizzardry...[bigwhistle]...mate?...was that an echo???...
Will update again as more happens, but at least there's life, and it moves around under it's own steam.
If anyone can help with fluid capacities / specification etc it would be appreciated. Same goes if you see any errors in my plans and asumptions above.
Thanks, Rob.

Do not use gearbox oil in the lt95
They take 20w40 same as the engine because they have an oil pump that doesn't like the thicker gear oil.
Lots of info and servicing for the 4bd1 on here in the Isuzu engine section

Yes, as Phil says. The LT95 gearbox has a small oil pump on the front of the box, This has a fairly weak drive to it, which, however, is perfectly adequate in normal use. But put a normal gearbox oil in it, and one day you will start up on a cold morning, and the drive will be unable to cope with the viscosity of the oil, and will break. Something that will not become apparent for perhaps tens of thousands of kilometres, when a bearing that relies on the oil pump for lubrication in severe service fails when you are, for example towing in hot weather or heavily loaded on a steep hill.

(The other issue with the oil pump is a tendency for the diecast cover to warp and leak - the clutch does not work well when lubricated. But this may happen regardless of the oil used.)

I use the same oil as the engine, only done 620,000km so far - box overhauled at about 200,000km, oil pump cover fixed at about 590,000km.

And change fuel filters on a regular basis - the injectors will probably never give you any problems.

Thanks gents,
I was under the impression I could use a dedicated manual gearbox oil with a similar viscosity to the 20w50 as they have friction modifiers for better syncro performance and reduced shear.
But I'll defer to your experience and advice.
I'm off to get the oils and filters now. Super Crap is having a 50% off oil sale.
Fortunately I also received a visit yesterday from my friend who sold it to me. He was looking in a cupboard and found a set of books, rego papers and even the purchase receipt from the original owner.
It was aparently a one owner vehicle from the Wollongong area.
In that set is a 3.9 user manual with the fluid specifications and capacities. There's a V8 hardcover book, a RRC parts catalogue, a Haynes 2.25 manual, a 'how to 4WD' booklet by land rover and sundry others. Most are useful in parts that apply but are not all vehicle specific. So funny to see the typos and errors in the books - definately not proof read!
The car was originally bought for $14060.00 in 1982. Last registed in 1996.
Interestingly, whilst the engine number matches the paperwork, the vin number differs in 3 of the 17 characters. Perhaps it was hastily copied down or incorrectly transcribed because the plate seems original.
The plate says SALLBCMVI....... the old rego says SALLHAMV1....... Hopefully that won't cause an issue with the blue slip..
Thanks again for the advice and assistance.
Rob.