Isuzu remote turbo

Thanks Steve, I see what you mean about the Donuts, never used them yet. Good idea.
I have given the stack idea away and am going inside the chassis. Its easier.
Your layout looks good. I like the way with these Holsets you can clock the ends without bothering the wastegate.

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Originally Posted by rar110

Yes it is a bit more complicated. But more efficient especially in that location.

When I was looking at a WTA set up on the 110, I bought a Ford EB condenser for a radiator and generic magnetic drive pump with brushless motor. So, reliable, cheap and easy to find if you need a spare.

A WTA is very compact in comparison and so easier to locate.

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Been looking at pumps. How hot is the water in a WTA likely to get.? Some pumps are rated hotter than others.

I did not realise that stainless donuts were not seam welded on the inside until I cut it in half. More work with the stick.

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Originally Posted by 123rover50

Been looking at pumps. How hot is the water in a WTA likely to get.? Some pumps are rated hotter than others.

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I think 200 degrees water temp would be plenty of tolerance. I can’t see the water temp going much above engine temp ranges.

After a moderate run in my TDV8, at idle my EGTs post turbo are 100 degrees, and the air temp post ATA intercooler are 50 degrees. That’s not much help but maybe better than nothing.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by rar110

I think 200 degrees water temp would be plenty of tolerance. I can’t see the water temp going much above engine temp ranges.

After a moderate run in my TDV8, at idle my EGTs post turbo are 100 degrees, and the air temp post ATA intercooler are 50 degrees. That’s not much help but maybe better than nothing.

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Is that 200 F or C degrees. Those little pumps are only 90 C or so. I did not think the water would get that hot.

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Originally Posted by 123rover50

I did not realise that stainless donuts were not seam welded on the inside until I cut it in half. More work with the stick.

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Yeah - the mild ones are, but stainless aren't for some reason.

Re the pumps, no personal experience but I figured you can't go too wrong with one of the Bosch intercooler pumps located after the radiator outlet. My logic being that if the water after the radiator is still at 90deg then its not going to be doing much cooling, and the radiator needs to be bigger/better :)

Steve

Gday Keith, 90degrees surprises me as most engine coolant temps in normal conditions is in the mid 80s degrees C.

For my WTA project (now abandoned as don’t use 110 much) I bought a Davies Craig pump. But I didn’t consider coolant temp to be honest. These are purpose built for range of applications including WTA IC applications with a temp range up to 120 degrees C. Link below.

EBP23 - ELECTRIC BOOSTER PUMP (12V) (9051)

Looking for a place for the turbo oil return and noticed for the first time after all these years that this engine does not have a crankcase breather.
Wonder what it does instead.

Also this engine has springs under inlet manifold nuts. None of my other three have that either.
I wonder if boost pressure will affect them.

Removed the oil pump plate to braze in a drain and noticed that there is a gap of about 5mm between the top of the pump drive and this plate.
Other plates on here look to be cast with a protrusion down to the pump but this is flat. However it looks as if the pump bit has been rubbing on it.
This must mean 5mm end play so is the pump drive jumping up and rubbing on this plate when the engine starts?
Its been like this for the 25 odd years its been in. Up the Cape and across the Simpson with no oil pressure problems.

Any thoughts?

Looks normal.
As for your drain issue, is that T motor?