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Whats a T motor?
Just went down and checked my spare 4BD1.
Its got a cast cover over that hole and the shaft inside is different. There is a shaft exposed, whereas this one I am working on has a hollow collar affair
as can be seen from the wear pattern on the inside of the cover. Anyway this one with the flat plate looks easier to put the drain into than the other cast one with the boss that goes inside.
It just bothers me that the collar affair must move up 5mm to wear on the plate.
The two bolt steel plate at the bottom of your 1st pic is the factory oil drain point. But the turbo specialist that fitted my turbo, drained to the same oil pump cover plate.
That motor is evidently an automotive or truck motor Keith as evidenced by the different oil pump, intake bolt springs (for overboost protection) and the turbo oil drain plate on the side plus no crankcase breather on the side plate. It should have a larger diameter pipe on the tappet cover breather than the other motors which are industrial version motors. The rocker cover should have a hump at the back of it.
This engine and the other spare were both out of NPR Isuzu,s
Neither have a hump on the tappet cover but I think this one in the FC has a bigger breather pipe in the tappet cover.
The spare has the big breather pipe on the side cover and the cast 2 bolt oil pump cover.
So the 5mm gap on top of the oil pump drive is OK then?
So just drill a hole in that 2 bolt cover and braze in a drain.
Pete,s photo in one thread had the cast 2 bolt cover that the drain was welded too.
Should I swap the side covers with the spare and give this the big breather, perhaps with a provent.?
Will the sprung inlet manifold be OK or should I remove the springs and put in a couple of dead nuts as spacers?
Gets complicated.
I'd say definitely use the factory oil drain since its there. Pretty sure they are a steel plate so braze or weld whichever you prefer. Stainless stick welds nicely to mild steel using stainless rods in case you happen to need/want to.
I've got the cast breather side plate on mine, and have a provent connected to that with the outlet from the Provent connected between air filter and turbo inlet.
Steve
If you have the room I would use the diamond shaped steel 2 bolt plate as the turbo drain point.
I have a provent on my 110 but am likely to move it to the L322 TDV8.
I would use the side plates for crank case ventilation using a oil catcher rather than something expensive like a Provent 200. You can drain to the same point as your vac pump/alternator. That’s what I did.
I think I have some spare modified side plates with some amateur welded 3/4 tube unless you want to keep yours intact/original.
Also, that diamond shaped plate doesn’t exist on the civy 110 Isuzus to 1986 at least.
So what I am calling the 2 bolt oil pump cover (some cast and some steel plate) is actually the factory turbo drain point.
Is that right?
From reading threads I just thought it was a convenient point to drain to when adding a turbo.
I have never seen a factory 4BD1T to see where the factory drain was.
The inlet manifold has a tin elbow I was going to use 2 1/2 inch hose to from the turbo. It has a hose tail going to the breather on the tappet cover that will have to be blocked off of course. Or I might make a new one and put in a port for the boost gauge.
Still waiting for the intercooler and rad from Frozen boost.
I will either use the cast side plate from the spare engine or weld a spigot into this one.
Thanks for the offer Pete.
In your pic Isuzu oil pump 01 the plate everyone is talking about is below the oil pump cover. Similar shape and size but just below on the side of the block. That’s the factory turbo oil drain.
Yes the factory drain is the plate just below and to right of the dip stick tube.