Thread: Isuzu remote turbo

If going in that location why not a WTA?

I thought of that too, but going through some old threads I still need a radiator and circulating pump so I would still need fans to cool that radiator as I cant put it in front either. It would have to go over the gearbox as well and it gets complicated. Old threads consensus seems that a good ATA is as efficient.
Untill I started reading I thought a WTA used the same coolant as the engine, then wondered how hot water would cool as good as ambient air untill I read about the separate radiator.

Yes it is a bit more complicated. But more efficient especially in that location.

When I was looking at a WTA set up on the 110, I bought a Ford EB condenser for a radiator and generic magnetic drive pump with brushless motor. So, reliable, cheap and easy to find if you need a spare.

A WTA is very compact in comparison and so easier to locate.

Food for thought.
I still have that curly intake manifold someone a few years back converted to a WTA by cutting it open and putting some core in it. I cant find it ATM but dont remember reading how it turned out.
Can you remember anything? No one seems to have done it since. It may be an option and put the radiator over the gearbox.

Just remembered. Laminova comes to mind.

Yes Ben or IsuzuRover was looking at doing it using that intake manifold, and yes Laminova type intercooler.

I found a thread from 2013 where we were discussing this. Back when I put the turbo in the 120. Still no intercooler in it. My memory is rat **** these days as I had forgotten all that. Sucks getting old.
The exhaust from the turbo exits above deck level and above the chassis. I can either put in a 180 then a 90 down and bring the pipe to the rear inside the chassis.

Holset turbo 01 by [url=https://www.flickr.com/photos/141809689@N05/]


Or go over the deck then a 90 through both bulkheads, another 90 out the side then another 90 up into a stack.
Would look cool but may be not practical. I want to keep my exhaust brake and this way is a bit tight as it would have to bolt up to the turbo before a flexible.
The first way inside the chassis keeps the brake away from the turbo which seems preferable but an internet search finds lots of examples where the brake is bolted up to the turbo outlet also.

Holset turbo 02 by [url=https://www.flickr.com/photos/141809689@N05/]

Looking good.
Hard to tell from the photo, but you might not have to go a full 180deg on your first elbow, as you get a bit of horizontal distance out of the second (90deg) one to get you back inside the chassis rail.
I'm assuming you know to use a donut for your bends rather than normal U's or elbows? Gives a much tighter radius.

I also like to use the 3-bolt flange joints between the dump pipe and the next section to make it easier to get the exhaust out in sections.

Steve

Hi Steve,

Are you using 304 mandrel sections from VPW for example and diy or something else?

I've had enough of exhaust cowboys and want to do a nice system for my pos once and for all.

Your suggestion of 3 bolt flanges is right on the money............ recently sold a 2 door with a 3" mandrel system that had 3 bolt flanges after the extractors, just before the muffler, and another before it bent up and over the rear diff. Beautifully done.......... in mild steel.

cheers, DL