60x 40 work well but you have move one bonnet rib .mine has some rust still finishing
60x 40 work well but you have move one bonnet rib .mine has some rust still finishing
Or buy a proper fitting off f bay.. 130 bucks..not from Cummins Aus tho as they wanted 260 bucks plus freight...for 1x 90 deg bend ex Melb!!
Pn 3918686..straights are also out there..freight is about 2 weeks atm.
Saves butchering the outlet...same for exhaust..do a search for the v band fitting. Eg benzforce
BF-CPL-HEXHA
I forgot to mention in my original post, I took the oil feed from the oil filter housing mostly because that's where the turbo oil feed is on the factory turbo motors.
Seems like a lot of people Tee off the vacuum pump, I'm sure it works fine, only difference is that oil has been through the oil cooler and might take half a second longer upon startup (debatable).
If anyone knows an engineer whom worked at isuzu in the 1980's I would love to know exactly why the turbo is plumbed in before the oil cooler. Maybe it was just easy?
I noticed KLR tap into the oil filter housing too, and run an AN-4 braided teflon line with steel fittings just like I did.
Thanks for sharing those part numbers, I had a lot of trouble trying to find exhaust flanges for these turbos.Originally Posted by INter674
Welding pipe straight to the flange still gains a bit of room between the back of the alternator though.
Might save a bit of room welding but makes installation less neat and flexible in ordering the exhaust to the best posi. The v band only adds a few mm if installed correctly using a doughnut ie 180 degree 3" mandrel bend plus other bends etc as required to get to the normal route.
Re the oil feed..a long line would also build in a delay..perhaps. We tested the feed from the air pump oil line and the oil came out instantaneously as the engine started. 90psi prolly means it gets anywhere real fast.!! So not sure why KLR etc take it off the filter and we like the post oil cooler approach given the turbo heat issues. We've seen 300 deg plus EGTs at 18psi or thereabouts atm on test runs.
Btw on FFRs the 24v gen can be rotated 180 degrees to place the connector to the bottom next to the sump thereby relocating the cable well away from the exhaust. It's a tight fit but it works☺
I'm just sorting out the oil return.
I had planned to thread a fitting into the top of that plate with 2 bolts at the base of the block. But looking at it now, it would be neater and easier to t-into the oil return line for the vacuum pump.
Any reason I can't do this?
The angle of the oil return hose appears to be steep enough for the oil to drain, but perhaps there's not enough flow when the vac pump oil joins?
Yes, I'm happy with the drain tube diameter. Was more concerned about what happens where it connects to the block. Perhaps the flow rate at that point is not sufficient when combined with the flow from the vac pump drain?
I would go with the oil pump cover plate and make the connection at least 10mm in diameter. This will ensure there is no back up of oil.
I drilled a 12mm hole in the cover plate just above the gear outer where there is a natural drain space and made a flanged pipe fitting..one side of which fixes to the factory bolt..the other I threaded a stud into the plate. Fitted a gasket and all's good. The drain hose runs nearly straight down from turbo to the oil pump plate with a 12mm heat proof hose.
I think the dip stick is too restricted for two discharges..there's a lot of pressure in the system hence lots of oil flow to deal with.
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