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Thread: RRC collisions between firewall and turbo pipes.

  1. #1
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    RRC collisions between firewall and turbo pipes.

    Yes, my project is still dragging on...

    You beaut, finally cut all the rust out of the coach work and can now drop it onto the rolling chassis. Late yesterday I realised it's not going to happen.

    Looking for some good photos of RRC engine bays, with turbos, showing workarounds, and advise. Its a 1984 model. The 4BD1T is from an Isuzu truck.

    If it were a naturally aspirated engine then it would sit clear of all elements of the firewall, including the water trough under the windscreen that protrudes out from the firewall.

    I'm getting conflicts between turbo pipes, firewall, and in particular the water trough feature. Even the reverse gear sensor on the MSA5G gearbox is butting heads with the lower level of the airconditioning duct in the cab, but that is a minor problem.

    In the Isuzu truck the turbo air inlet pipe runs from filter box on drivers side, then behind the engine, to connect with the turbo inlet on the passenger side. The first rub was between this air inlet pipe and stubs of pipe that were part of the aircon system protruding through the firewall but that was got past. What was worse was the water trough sat right on top of this pipe, totally obstructing further progress. Removing the pipe allowed me to drop the coach work further on to the vehicle, but also exposed the mouth of the turbo. I realise ideally that I should change the direction of this pipe, so that it feeds from a filter box on the passenger side, rather than from the drivers side.

    The turbo compressed air outlet pipe runs from turbo on passenger side, over the rear top of the engine, to the engine inlet manifold on drivers side. The second rub is now between the leading edge of the water trough and this compressed air pipe. Removing this pipe allows the coach work to settle further onto the body, and allows the rubbers between the chassis and coach to line up. However, the mouth of the turbo is now facing directly into the top of the leading edge of the water trough and no room for attaching any inlet pipe. Trying 2 inch body lift, courtesy of some brick pavers, leaves the mouth of the tubo facing the lower leading edge of the trough, so not much help.

    So focus now moves to the exhaust manifold and turbo attachment. The exhaust manifold outlet points up. Is there an adaptor that will allow reorientation to the horizontal or downward? I could flip the manifold, but it is not purely symmetrical, and would put bolts securing the exhaust pipe at the wrong end. I get the impression the root cause of problems is the exhaust manifold design for this application.

    Any one made their own manifold out of steel? I have a feeling that my next few weeks are going to be all about manifolds, as the D2 Td5 has lost manifold bolts and is whistling, which is a sign of warpage.

    The outcast adaptor and Sheldons adaptor are the same length. I did wonder if only the adaptor was 50mm longer then turbo clearances would not be such a problem. But then starter motors/chasssis and steering box/engine corner would be colliding. So lift the engine, but then through the bonnet. Flow on effects.

    And to be honest, coming from the great head room of the D1/D2 I'm not really liking the RRC low lines. Can see why some have gone over to Defender projects.

  2. #2
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    What about a body lift ?
    Regards PhilipA

  3. #3
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    Guess I could hack the firewall. Lead the filtered air inlet and intercooled air outlet into the cab space, and out again...just the thing for driving in the subtropics.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by PhilipA View Post
    What about a body lift ?
    Regards PhilipA
    Emulated that with 50mm bricks plus one half of the rubber grommet arrangement that joins coach and chassis. The emulation is not perfect, but it Just seems to change the relative position of the obstruction between water trough and turbo inlet - without lift then full obstruction - with lift then partial obstruction.

    If I've done something wrong in set up then I'll have to revisit something, like the engine mounts. If I've done everything correctly then there must be solutions. Maybe I may have to hack into the trough. The trough runs almost horizontally from the left and the right under the windscreen, but rises quite a bit at the centre, I assume to stop water pooling. Do you really need a trough - ok so water runs down the firewall - or is it important structurally.

    I can only guess that these are the same problems everyone else has had. The transfer case stays in factory position. The Outcast and Core adaptors are the same length. You can only drop the fabricated height of the engine mounts so far before your starter motor hits the chassis and front axle risks hitting the sump.

  5. #5
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    Mine fit no worries with a body lift, and have seen a few others the same.
    Only one i have seen without a body lift was a NA one.
    You should not have to cut anything at all.

    Post some pics
    Damien
    ------------------------------------------------

  6. #6
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    Couple of photos indicating margin of space around engine as set in chassis. Plus issues with setting coach over chassis.

    20200629_122808.jpg
    How it started yesterday

    20200630_164953.jpg
    Engine set in chassis, about 55mm to crank bolt

    20200630_165011.jpg
    Close to the top with 2" lift

    20200630_165035.jpg
    Lift

    20200630_165102.jpg
    Plenty of space between engine and firewall low down

    20200630_165650.jpg
    Lift the coach up and scribe the rise in the water trough

    20200630_170120.jpg
    Coach dropped down again, three white marks on turbo mouth compared to scribed line on water trough

    20200630_170232.jpg
    Minor issue sensor on gearbox hitting aircon controls

    20200630_172425.jpg
    Bit more than a finger gap as set in chassis

    20200630_172556.jpg
    white marks left and right showing line of water trough

    20200630_181742.jpg
    Sideways view water trough just covering top of turbo mouth

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vern View Post
    Mine fit no worries with a body lift, and have seen a few others the same.
    Only one i have seen without a body lift was a NA one.
    You should not have to cut anything at all.

    Post some pics

    I assume 2" aluminium? Wonder how much rise you can have? Up here it seems we can have 50 spring, 50 body, 50 on tyres total 150mm.

    Not sure where I can tinker with margins - starter close to chassis, power steering box close to corner of engine.

    I can reshape and flatten the pipe running from the turbo to the inlet manifold - but that's not considering an intercooler somewhere to change route.

    Slight reshape of rise in water trough.

    Shave a few mm off the outlet on the manifold and turbo mount pad.

    Power bulge in bonnet not really needed.

  8. #8
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    Ok, a few issues. That turbo manifold doesn't really help with fitment, you need the one with the angled t3 face.
    Also, the factory crossover pipe doesn't fit well either. Much easier to go custom, theres not a lot of clearance between the engine and bonnet, thats why most go for a front mount intercooler.
    I used the LRA 2" body lift kit, expensive, but very good.
    Damien
    ------------------------------------------------

  9. #9
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    unbolt the turbo, roll it 180 so the compressor is at the front then reclock it to suit.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

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  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blknight.aus View Post
    unbolt the turbo, roll it 180 so the compressor is at the front then reclock it to suit.
    Hmmm...I'm going to have to think about that...sounds too simple!

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