Thread: 4bd1 county oil and fuel filter different to perentie?

Originally Posted by Jesse.s

Just ignore the quote Dave I'm not shore how to tag people in comments. I feel like this might be an easy answer for you. Let me no if you think there is a right or wrong way to do what I'm talking about in the previous comment I no oil changes is really getting down to basics so feel free to use sarcasm font if you have managed to puzzle that one yet

no mate, that was aimed at JDNSW specifically about changing the lift pump, its a simple easy fix that takes about 10 minutes to do, the part is moderately commen yet most of them get ignored.

If you need a hand getting to learn your way around your vehicle, it just so happens, I know a guy....

the seal should be a slightly tight fit around the base of the filter housing and the canister should be a tight fit over that... if you have that type of filter housing. if you have the other one...

the seal should sit in the groove of the filter canister and be a snug fit staning about 1mm clear of the top of the cansiter. If you dont have that one...

theres a groove in the filter housing and the canister has a flat lip on it, the seal fits in the groove of the housing and the canister fits onto that, the seal should fit snugly and about 1mm proud.

the drain bung for the filter is on the filter housing.

I usually use a little rubber grease or old engine oil, if thats been used excessively and the seal is brilliant there will be some left over. if its a sealastic type material then no, that shouldnt be needed unless theres been some kind of emergency repair carried out and ignrored.

Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

no mate, that was aimed at JDNSW specifically about changing the lift pump, its a simple easy fix that takes about 10 minutes to do, the part is moderately commen yet most of them get ignored.

If you need a hand getting to learn your way around your vehicle, it just so happens, I know a guy....

the seal should be a slightly tight fit around the base of the filter housing and the canister should be a tight fit over that... if you have that type of filter housing. if you have the other one...

the seal should sit in the groove of the filter canister and be a snug fit staning about 1mm clear of the top of the cansiter. If you dont have that one...

theres a groove in the filter housing and the canister has a flat lip on it, the seal fits in the groove of the housing and the canister fits onto that, the seal should fit snugly and about 1mm proud.

the drain bung for the filter is on the filter housing.

I usually use a little rubber grease or old engine oil, if thats been used excessively and the seal is brilliant there will be some left over. if its a sealastic type material then no, that shouldnt be needed unless theres been some kind of emergency repair carried out and ignrored.

Haha I no I was just giving you permition to use sarcasm because I thought I might be asking a stumped question.
I have lots more of them to
thanks for all the help Dave
I have the groove in the filter housing and the flat lip on the canister drain plug on the bottom of the housing type.
The rubber ring I have didn't sit in the grove of the housing it sits just shy of it and couldn't get it to pop in... I was hoping it splays out and pops in as you tighten it down?
Maybe that's a bit optimistic.

Also after a long drive if I put the car in nutrel my foot off the clutch some thing is making a shattering noise.
I no that its symptomatic of a front input shaft bearing to do that.
is it possible its just springs in the pressure plate?
It didn't do this until after driving for about an hour, the next day no noise. Is it possible its because my gear box oil is a bit low?
I have my rear tyres let down to 20 psi to fit her in the garage and they where like that when I changed the gearbox oil, heaps of oil came out the filler plug when I opened it the first time. Maybe I should pump tires up and check levels?
Maybe I should have started a new thread for that one

Originally Posted by Jesse.s

I thought I might be asking a stumped question.

I have the groove in the filter housing and the flat lip on the canister drain plug on the bottom of the housing type.

I assume you mean stupid question, canned response.
No-one has ever asked me a stupid question. In any room or group of people there will likely be at least one other person who isnt asking that same question because they think its too menial to ask. There is a stupid question, Its the one you think of and dont ask.

Never be shy about asking a question, Stupidity lies at the feet of those who deny answering the question because of their judgement. Ask your questions, odds are if I dont answer it first its because someone else with the same base of knowledge answers it before me. Dont outright trust my answers, if other people are offering answers look at those to, I make mistakes. Always stop and consider the info you have, in the situation you are in. If it doesnt make sense, feel right or look right then theres a reason, find out what that is and rectify the info or the situation.

Heres an example

Dave how do I check the vavles on a 3.9....
( technical answer omitted here)
Ok, but what about the other 4 cylinders....

no, dont ask, yes its happened and no, you cant set the v8 valves up using the isuzu specs...

Originally Posted by Jesse.s

Also after a long drive if I put the car in nutrel my foot off the clutch some thing is making a shattering noise.
I no that its symptomatic of a front input shaft bearing to do that.
is it possible its just springs in the pressure plate?
It didn't do this until after driving for about an hour, the next day no noise. Is it possible its because my gear box oil is a bit low?
I have my rear tyres let down to 20 psi to fit her in the garage and they where like that when I changed the gearbox oil, heaps of oil came out the filler plug when I opened it the first time. Maybe I should pump tires up and check levels?
Maybe I should have started a new thread for that one

could be the guide tube on the gearbox input shaft, fork, clutch springs, layshaft front bearing or input shaft bearing failing. Check the transfer case oil as well as the gearbox oil, If you have the 4 speed lt95 they are prone to using the seal sleeve to pump oil one way or the other. dont forget to pull the strainer, what comes out in the oil is a key diagnostic clue.

Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

I assume you mean stupid question, canned response.
No-one has ever asked me a stupid question. In any room or group of people there will likely be at least one other person who isnt asking that same question because they think its too menial to ask. There is a stupid question, Its the one you think of and dont ask.

Never be shy about asking a question, Stupidity lies at the feet of those who deny answering the question because of their judgement. Ask your questions, odds are if I dont answer it first its because someone else with the same base of knowledge answers it before me. Dont outright trust my answers, if other people are offering answers look at those to, I make mistakes. Always stop and consider the info you have, in the situation you are in. If it doesnt make sense, feel right or look right then theres a reason, find out what that is and rectify the info or the situation.

Heres an example

Dave how do I check the vavles on a 3.9....
( technical answer omitted here)
Ok, but what about the other 4 cylinders....

no, dont ask, yes its happened and no, you cant set the v8 valves up using the isuzu specs...




could be the guide tube on the gearbox input shaft, fork, clutch springs, layshaft front bearing or input shaft bearing failing. Check the transfer case oil as well as the gearbox oil, If you have the 4 speed lt95 they are prone to using the seal sleeve to pump oil one way or the other. dont forget to pull the strainer, what comes out in the oil is a key diagnostic clue.

wise words i will definitely make my own decisions but it is good to have other pairs of eyes that know the car
so the filter was leaking oil when i started the car hears a picture of the rubber ring as you can see it sits just shy of the groove.. dos it look right the other one that was on it was pretty much the same size. am i best sticking the ring to the cartridge and fitting it that way or is that just the wrong part
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thats the wrong o ring, thats the one for the much earlier upside downy filter housing that seals on the inside edge, make sure the old oring fits in the goove and take a trip to somewhere like AB seals on sydney rd in campbelfield and get one from them. You can also make them from oring splice kits if you have one and know how.

If you've got a vernier its a doddle to measure up and get one on spec.

If you dont have a verneier, but you have bearing blue (or similar) useit to mark the housing then transfer to the cansiter and take that along so they can see the sizing...

Just checked my assortment while looking for something else, I think I might have an oring to suit right here in my hand...
If not its going to be bigger in size but the same diameter so you could cut it to size and take it to a suitable oring shop...

Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

Just checked my assortment while looking for something else, I think I might have an oring to suit right here in my hand...
If not its going to be bigger in size but the same diameter so you could cut it to size and take it to a suitable oring shop...

thanks dave i just saw this.
I ended up getting a 105x4 o ring from an enginears supise stoor in geelong, i think the corect size is 106mm or 107mm but they didnt have that size.
i gave it a gentle stretch and it fit in the groove perfectly. ill definetly keep my eye on it but so far all good.
maybe ill just get a roll of it and cut it to size in the future if i cant fined the corect filter part

on the upside my engien oil got a flush