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Thread: Pro's and Con's of Turboing A N/A 4BD1

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by JDNSW View Post
    Well, yes. The piston temperature will depend largely on how much fuel is burnt, but will generally be higher with higher intake pressure, simply because the fuel is burnt more effectively. And since the whole idea of pressurising the engine is to increase the power, as a general rule the maximum fuel delivery WILL be increased. But as you are pointing out, the problems will only arise when you actually use the increased power.

    John
    Hence, with a pyrometer, and sensible fuelling (EGT temps) its doubtful to effect longevity, go overboard and you motor croaks

  2. #12
    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is online now RoverLord Silver Subscriber
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    Quote Originally Posted by rovercare View Post
    Hence, with a pyrometer, and sensible fuelling (EGT temps) its doubtful to effect longevity, go overboard and you motor croaks
    Agreed, although unless the EGT temperature is continuously monitored and used to control maximum fuelling, the risk will always be there - on that real hot day when you call on it to do its utmost. But as I said at hte start of this thread - there is quite a margin of safety, you just have to be aware that you are cutting a bit into it.

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
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  3. #13
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    No point in putting a turbocharger onto a naturally aspirated engine without increasing fuel availability, unless the engine was already over fuelled and insufficient air was being supplied to burn the available fuel.
    URSUSMAJOR

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brian Hjelm View Post
    No point in putting a turbocharger onto a naturally aspirated engine without increasing fuel availability, unless the engine was already over fuelled and insufficient air was being supplied to burn the available fuel.
    That's exactly right, no gains to be made, even at 25psi with no extra fuelling, there won't be any issue's

    'tis the fuel that creates heat

  5. #15
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    I agree with rovercare and a few others with this one...

    If you turbo the suzi without messing with the fuel pump other than to do the timing of it your not going to have any problems, it will seem to run cleaner and in the right circumstnaces it will run cooler as its running leaner (more air, relatively less fuel) depending on how you set the turbo up you'll get a slightly sharper respones or a longer flatter torque curve.

    Its messing with the pump that gets you in the end. If you do a lot of messing with the pump then you need to do the rest properly to deal with it.

    Ive seen a burnt piston in a suzi (3.6 not 3.9) that was caused by a poorly set up pump/injector that was letting one pot work a lot harder than his buddies and it paid the consequences.
    Dave

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  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blknight.aus View Post
    I agree with rovercare and a few others with this one...
    Do you feel dirty? like you need a shower

    (tongue in cheek)

  7. #17
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    no mate, check your tag line for the reason why


    although 25 PSI might cause some valve float and might put the inlet manifold gasket at risk. :P
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  8. #18
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    I have only heard of 1 4bd1 having problems because of an aftermarket turbo, and the owner claimed to have the piston skirts end up in the sump when he got the motor. The car was a yellow rangie 4 door in western syd, very nice car too.

    Its strange, when my fueling was increased to suit the turbo, there has been no difference with my egts. Hottest so far has been 450, (550 is meant to be the safe limit) however i have not overloaded and pushed it hard yet.

    Andy

  9. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by andrew e View Post
    ... with my egts. Hottest so far has been 450, (550 is meant to be the safe limit)...

    Andy
    My workshop manual states 750*C for the BD1-T. Measured at the inlet of the turbo.

    The 4BD1-T has oil cooling for the pistons as JD mentioned. They also have alfin pistons, but I have heard that later 4BD1 also have these.

    So I wouldn't like egt as high as 750* in a 4BD1, but would be feel comfortable with 650* for short periods.

    When you see the egt climbing to around 650*, backing off a little or going down a gear will usually drop it.

  10. #20
    lokka Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by Blknight.aus View Post
    I agree with rovercare and a few others with this one...

    If you turbo the suzi without messing with the fuel pump other than to do the timing of it your not going to have any problems, it will seem to run cleaner and in the right circumstnaces it will run cooler as its running leaner (more air, relatively less fuel) depending on how you set the turbo up you'll get a slightly sharper respones or a longer flatter torque curve.

    Its messing with the pump that gets you in the end. If you do a lot of messing with the pump then you need to do the rest properly to deal with it.

    Ive seen a burnt piston in a suzi (3.6 not 3.9) that was caused by a poorly set up pump/injector that was letting one pot work a lot harder than his buddies and it paid the consequences.

    So dose this mean i can alter the pump a little to gain some more horses providing i use a EGT gauge and try keep my EGT's down ..

    I also want to run as big a cooler as i can even if i have to make my own i dont care as long as it dose its job im happy

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