Thread: Stock Fuel Setting.

My engine is in a bad position at the moment. I can measure tomorrow afternoon (have to go out early). But it is a different pump to yours.

Originally Posted by Bush65

My engine is in a bad position at the moment. I can measure tomorrow afternoon (have to go out early). But it is a different pump to yours.

Much appreciated if you can.

reading emei on pump rebuild which of the myrad of adjustments did you want to know about?

the external control arm limit adjusters (on the top where the throttle cable hooks in)

the full load setting bolt (which is responsable for the absolute maximum travel of the rack)

The idle speed setting (dont think so but its there)

or the torque cam control rod adjustment?

Doing these properly requires a test jig BUT you can do them by touchy feely with the pump on the engine. (I dont advise this)

15.75 mm - measured from the face that is also the joint for the governor housing cover, to the end of the full load screw, that contacts the cam.

Originally Posted by Bush65

15.75 mm - measured from the face that is also the joint for the governor housing cover, to the end of the full load screw, that contacts the cam.

Thanks.

A quick measure gets about 17mm, but I'm avoiding hot parts in the engine bay to do that.
Of course as you said different fuel pumps, but maybe there is equivalence between those for setting maximum rack travel.

Originally Posted by Blknight

the full load setting bolt (which is responsable for the absolute maximum travel of the rack)

That's the one.

ok the full load bolt is an adjustment that requires the pump being in a proper jig to test and adjust... however theres nothing wrong with doing about 1/8th of a turn and relying on your EGR and smoke output to adjust it...

as I recal you have the turbo version so if you have the boost compensator dont forget that when your adjusting it you need to apply air pressure to that to clear it from the rack or your not going to get a clean adjustment.

Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

ok the full load bolt is an adjustment that requires the pump being in a proper jig to test and adjust... however theres nothing wrong with doing about 1/8th of a turn and relying on your EGR and smoke output to adjust it...

as I recal you have the turbo version so if you have the boost compensator dont forget that when your adjusting it you need to apply air pressure to that to clear it from the rack or your not going to get a clean adjustment.

Yeah short of pulling the pump and measuring the fuel output, I figured measuring the screw protrusion will give me some idea. But protruding 1mm more than John's one would mean that mine should have less rack travel, so the method ain't that great.

The Aneroid on mine has an internal pushrod which internally does exactly the same job as lengthening the external screw length when there's no boost.
Fixing and adjusting the aneroid has changed my engines behaviour completely.

It's also changed my driving style.

Originally Posted by Dougal

Yeah short of pulling the pump and measuring the fuel output, I figured measuring the screw protrusion will give me some idea. But protruding 1mm more than John's one would mean that mine should have less rack travel, so the method ain't that great.

Actually measuring the output isnt what your after there your after the physical position of the rack internally on the pump.


the stupid simple version of how to adjust that pump is...


1. set the stop position then ensure all pumps do 0 output

2 set idle position and ensure all pumps have the same output

3. set rack at max travel and recheck

4. adjust max governed position and pump output

5. adjust fuel out put on running rig for full load setting

6. recheck shut down fuel output is 0

7. adjust the travel stops on the top of the pump

8. run up on test rig and confirm fuel output at starting condition, idle, full rpm (no load) full rpm (full load) and shut down positions.

Not quite by the book but thats about the order that you do all the adjustments.

If you want to be a dumb yokel about it, generically speaking, its possable to set that pump up for full fuel output with the rack in the stop position and then it will try to give you more when you get on the noise....

Measuring the screw lengths isnt going to do anything for you as there are no fewer than 4 components in the pump that have quite a large manufacturing tolerance that are going to influence the position of the screw.