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Thread: Temperature spikes in 4BD1T

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by rijidij View Post
    Thanks Bojan,
    The system actually holds pressure even after sitting for days, so I don't think there is a leak anywhere. I will test the cap as you suggest. The fluid loss is deffinately out the overflow at the cap. Anyway, a cap is such a low cost item, it might be worth getting a new one.
    I've got the radiator from the truck my engine came from. I'll have a look at the rating on that cap just for interest.
    Can anyone tell me the rating for the pressure cap on a factory Isuzu 110 ?

    Cheers, Murray
    The one that I have on mine is 15psi - it looks as aged as the rest of the car, so it could be original. It's made by Unipart, and has a part number "BRO 9132" stamped on it.

    On a side note, when you say "The system actually holds pressure even after sitting for days" do you mean it stays pressurised for that long?

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Offender90 View Post
    On a side note, when you say "The system actually holds pressure even after sitting for days" do you mean it stays pressurised for that long?
    Yeah, after the County has been sitting for a couple of days, I've undone the cap and it was still pressurised. Not as much as at running temp of corse, but enough to gurgle coolant up to the header tank.

    Murray
    '88 County Isuzu 4Bd1 Turbo Intercooled, '96 Defender 130 CC VNT
    '85 Isuzu 120 Trayback, '72 SIIA SWB Diesel Soft Top
    '56 SI Ute Cab


  3. #13
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    Does your county run a full flow heater?
    My rangie does, but my truck engine was originally intended to run a bypass heater. So I have the bypass hose from water pump to thermostat blocked off.

    Seems to work for me.

  4. #14
    The Mutt Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by Dougal View Post
    Does your county run a full flow heater?
    My rangie does, but my truck engine was originally intended to run a bypass heater. So I have the bypass hose from water pump to thermostat blocked off.

    Seems to work for me.
    What is the difference between a Full Flow Heater and a Bypass Heater. I hooked up the standard Rangie system to the water pump of the 4BD1.

    Glenn

  5. #15
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    As I understand, the full flow heater in rangies has the full flow of water though the heater core at all times - one reason why it is hot inside during summer. The air, not water is regulated by the hot/cold heater control.

    This allows the pump to circulate some water through the engine (but not radiator) before the thermostat opens.

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dougal View Post
    Does your county run a full flow heater?
    My rangie does, but my truck engine was originally intended to run a bypass heater. So I have the bypass hose from water pump to thermostat blocked off.

    Seems to work for me.
    The heater hoses are hooked up the same as they were in the truck, I think it's a full flow system.
    '88 County Isuzu 4Bd1 Turbo Intercooled, '96 Defender 130 CC VNT
    '85 Isuzu 120 Trayback, '72 SIIA SWB Diesel Soft Top
    '56 SI Ute Cab


  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by rijidij View Post
    I've got the radiator from the truck my engine came from. I'll have a look at the rating on that cap just for interest.
    Can anyone tell me the rating for the pressure cap on a factory Isuzu 110 ?

    Cheers, Murray
    The only number stamped on the pressure cap that was on the truck rad is 90, does anyone know what it indicates ?
    '88 County Isuzu 4Bd1 Turbo Intercooled, '96 Defender 130 CC VNT
    '85 Isuzu 120 Trayback, '72 SIIA SWB Diesel Soft Top
    '56 SI Ute Cab


  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by rijidij View Post
    The only number stamped on the pressure cap that was on the truck rad is 90, does anyone know what it indicates ?
    Murray, 90 Kpa, or 13psi in the old speak

    JC
    The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
    The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈

  9. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by rijidij View Post
    The heater hoses are hooked up the same as they were in the truck, I think it's a full flow system.
    In that case you've got two bypasses which could be either sharing water flow or having water circulate from one through the other.
    The Isuzu truck cab heater is a bypass, it shuts off water flow when not needed.

    Take off that short hockeystick hose, block it and see if your problem disappears.
    BTW, that little hose matches a mini part exactly.

  10. #20
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    I converted mine to a recovery system so the header tank is always full,just fitted a recovery cap to the header tank and a overflow bottle alongside,it has stopped air pockets forming in the cooling system as the top of the heater core is higher than the bleading plug on the thermo housing.I don't have any temp spikes

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