Reply With QuoteYou can drive with one prop shaft, but you'll have to lock the center diff.
Murray
ChatterBox
After a days outing at Mount Mee Forest the clutch pedal decided it wasn't going to play anymoreA quick look under the bonnet and found there was no fluid at all. Have decided it's the slave cylinder at fault and purchased a new one,( M R Automotive too busy to fit it for two weeks ) so I'll have a go. Not much room is there ??
I also noticed that the brake master cylinder is leakingbetween the plastic resevoir and the master cylinder. This was replaced at the time I purchased the vehicle so is not a year old !! Could it just be the rubbers perished / not fitted correctly ?? Today it's leaking badly.
The final problem is the front prop uj's gave up on the way home earlierand created all sorts of strange noises. Can I remove front prop and still drive the vehicle ???
I'd like to drive vehicle to a brake service centre if possible and get brakes sorted while propshaft is being repaired
I'm just wondering if yesterday's off roading created any of these problems or just helped them along
ChatterBox
SubscriberYou can drive with one prop shaft, but you'll have to lock the center diff.
Murray
'88 County Isuzu 4Bd1 Turbo Intercooled, '96 Defender 130 CC VNT
'85 Isuzu 120 Trayback, '72 SIIA SWB Diesel Soft Top
'56 SI Ute Cab
Swaggie
IME Slave and Master cylinders tend to go in pairs. I replaced the clutch MC on the county, then within 6 months, the slave went. So I replaced both with stainless sleeved items. Hopefully they will last a while this time.
The slave is reasonably easy to replace. The clutch can be a PITA to bleed though. Best to put a sheet of plastic under the cap to seal the system before replacing.
UJs are easy to change too - especially if you have a reasonably sized vice and a few old sockets.
We just finish replacing the clutch slave and master in our 88 Rangie, the master dumped fluid at my feet while I was driving, lucky it was at the top of the street not Newcastle where we had been 2 1/2 hours earlier.
Don't do my trick and put the slave in upside down, the hydralics will never bleed that way.
Glenn
TopicToaster
If you can find a steep slope, face uphill, chock the wheels & then bleed the clutch. The angle of the master cyl causes a high spot for air & that is why its hard to get it right.
David
ChatterBox
Well I removed the propshaft and found it to be well worn out
My county has had the original switch moved, it is on the dashboard to the right of the speedo and it has lots of little pipes and T pieces all connected by the brake master cylinder.(also has an air locker) It seems to have two relay type switches and one of them clicks when I operate the switch. I'm thinking this has stopped working
Prior to removing the propshaft I jet washed all around the brake master cylinder area to remove fluid etc. I'm wondering if I damaged anything to do with the difflock set up without realising. ??
New propshaft now fitted, also new brake resevoir and rubbers, just the clutch bit to sort now. I cannot believe how smooth it runs with the new prop, better get me a grease gun I think
YarnMaster
You have lost me a bit!Originally Posted by jerryd
Well I removed the propshaft and found it to be well worn out
My county has had the original switch moved, it is on the dashboard to the right of the speedo and it has lots of little pipes and T pieces all connected by the brake master cylinder.(also has an air locker) It seems to have two relay type switches and one of them clicks when I operate the switch. I'm thinking this has stopped working
Prior to removing the propshaft I jet washed all around the brake master cylinder area to remove fluid etc. I'm wondering if I damaged anything to do with the difflock set up without realising. ??
New propshaft now fitted, also new brake resevoir and rubbers, just the clutch bit to sort now. I cannot believe how smooth it runs with the new prop, better get me a grease gun I think
If you have an LT95, the diff lock switch is a push pull knob on a valve that provides vacuum to the diff lock actuator. There are no electrics or relays involved (apart from indicator lamp).
Perhaps it has been modified to use a solenoid operated valve
Look for problems with the vacuum lines and the vacuum actuator on the front output housing (could be failed diaphragm).
If you have an LT85 with LT230, the diff lock uses mechanical linkages. These can become stiff if not used often enough - apply lots of spray. Or the indicator switch if adjusted in too far, or seized will prevent the diff from locking.
Swaggie
Quite possible. I know someone who has a Clippard Minimatics switch (same as Maxi-Drive use) to work his LT95 CDL.Perhaps it has been modified to use a solenoid operated valve
Jerry - any more info/pics etc.
ChatterBox
The gearbox is the LT95 4 speed, the push / pull switch has been replaced with one in the dash. All the bits'n pieces for this are mounted behind the brake master cylinder. There are two t' pieces with bits of pipe to them,also wire goes to them.
When I put the switch on, one of these t' pieces clicks
I'll take a few pics over the weekend and post them on here, maybe someone will recognise what these switches are.
YarnMaster
Ok, so you have Maxi-drive (which use vacuum actuators), not air lockers (ARB, which use compressed air).The gearbox is the LT95 4 speed, the push / pull switch has been replaced with one in the dash. All the bits'n pieces for this are mounted behind the brake master cylinder. There are two t' pieces with bits of pipe to them,also wire goes to them.
When I put the switch on, one of these t' pieces clicks
I'll take a few pics over the weekend and post them on here, maybe someone will recognise what these switches are.
Since the centre diff lock on the LT95 and Maxi-drive lockers both use vacuum actuators, it makes sense that they will have a common vacuum supply to the individual valves that control the vacuum to the actuators.
I would expect the tees to be in the line from the vacuum source (vacuum pump on diesel engine, or inlet manifold on petrol engine), or vacuum brake booster.
AFAIK, Max-drive used vacuum/pneumatic valves with manual operators, and the stock valve for the LT95 also has a manual operator.
None used solenoids, therefore none require relays. This is a good feature IMHO.
If someone has used relays and changed the valves to solenoid operated types, they have created an unnecessary
If you do have manual operated valves, there is little to go wrong - mainly leaks in lines, or diaphragms in actuators.
To trouble shoot this system
- check that you have a vacuum source (OK if power assist works for brakes)
- disconnect vacuum line from the actuator (look for sealed disc for diaphragm) at front output of t/case) and hold you finger over the end to check for vacuum when someone operates the control valve (engine must be running)
- if you have good vacuum pressure, the actuator is faulty (it is probably over 20 years old by now)
- other wise, go back along the line and repeat the check to find where the vacuum is leaking and repair the faulty line, fitting or control valve.
If you are unlucky enough to have solenoid operated valves, then besides the above vacuum checks, you could have a fault in the electrics (fuses, wires, connections (earths etc.), switches, relays, or solenoids).
Hope this helps and good luck.
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