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Thread: How long does your clutch last?

  1. #1
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    How long does your clutch last?

    How long do you get between clutch changes???

    Just pulled my clutch tonight and it was worn down to the rivets after ~100000km!!! I bought the car just after the clutch was changed by GC in sydney.

    I am surprised that a clutch can wear to the rivets in 100k km??? Especially in a touring vehicle that did no towing.

    As an aside, I noticed that the bellhousing isn't sealed, there are holes below the oil seal - has anyone managed to seal these up???

  2. #2
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    Same clutch as was slipping in Tasmania?
    Isuzurover has clutch issues

  3. #3
    Rangier Rover Guest
    When I purchased my 120" it came with receipts for two clutch replacements before 200K, Also had the Santana box out twice I suspect the clutch would have had more life but was replaced wile the box was out. I find mine very tall geared in reverse with 35s so my clutch will be lucky to see 100k with every day heavy use.
    I haven't looked at sealing the bell housing. I do some deep water crossings at times so it may come against me in time.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rangier Rover View Post
    When I purchased my 120" it came with receipts for two clutch replacements before 200K, Also had the Santana box out twice I suspect the clutch would have had more life but was replaced wile the box was out. I find mine very tall geared in reverse with 35s so my clutch will be lucky to see 100k with every day heavy use.
    I haven't looked at sealing the bell housing. I do some deep water crossings at times so it may come against me in time.
    The box in mine lasted till ~260000km and lost drive when the PO was in sydney. It was towed to GC where the box was pulled and sent to Mal Story (Maxi-Drive) for a rebuild and upgrade ($4500!!!). That was when the new clutch was fitted. I bought the vehicle shortly after as the PO was getting old and the new clutch was too stiff for his leg.

    I have another ~ 100k on the box since then. the synchro on 2nd is getting a bit worn/nonexistent, but apart from that the box is still going strong.

    Abaddonxi - yep. Clutch started slipping after we drove to montezuma falls. Wasn't too bad, so picked up the bits from JC and Matt then drove home. Clutch got better across the Nullarbor, and lasted another 3 months when we got home. However now it seems it lasted because the rivets were making nice grooves in the pressure plate and flywheel

    World's slowest clutch change

  5. #5
    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is offline RoverLord Silver Subscriber
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    Recently replaced the clutch because it was slipping. Turned out that it was slipping because it had oil on it due to a leaking seal. You could still see the grinding marks on the flywheel face from when it was last ground, and the driven plate had no apparent wear on it.

    Clutch was replaced when the gearbox was out about 250,000km ago (I didn't do that one, but I believe the last time the flywheel was ground was about 400,000km ago when the clutch was replaced when the rear main seal was replaced.)

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  6. #6
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    My rangie has done about 240,000km since the diesel was installed.
    I changed the clutch plate at around 170,000km as it was soaked in oil from a gearbox input seal (not slipping, just awful to engage). The old was worn, but not worn out.
    I changed the clutch plate again around 15,000km ago when I changed gearboxes (different input spline).

    I use the early Isuzu pressure plate and genuine plates. The pressure plate is similar if not identical to the isuzu/landrover one (275mm plate).

  7. #7
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    Cost to get a clutch replaced on a 110 Suzi for those of us who are mechanically challenged ( read incompetent )

  8. #8
    JDNSW's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by land864 View Post
    Cost to get a clutch replaced on a 110 Suzi for those of us who are mechanically challenged ( read incompetent )
    The cost of a driven plate is about $100 - but because of the amount of labor involved in removing the gearbox or engine, it is normal practice to replace the pressure plate, pilot bearing and release bearing as well, and in most cases machine the surface of the flywheel, and usually replace the rear crankshaft seal. In some cases there will be additional work to do as well.

    In my view if you are paying someone to do it, you are unlikely to get off for much less than $2,000, but you are getting more than just a new clutch. Note that parts costs (and quality) also vary quite a bit. Bear in mind that if a mechanic is doing the job, he has to replace everything that wears, and would also have to machine the flywheel, even if he would not have done so on his own car. And if the flywheel has already had too much removed from it to allow further machining, expect the cost of a new flywheel ($$$).

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  9. #9
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    It's worhtwhile IMHO to get the later 6x6 pressure plate if LT95, definately heavier pedal. My original was slipping very slightly for a while, but it was almost impossible to tell during normal ops, unless heavy towing or lugging. The old plate was shiney, and the flywheel had hotspots. Installation wasn't the best.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1103.9TDI View Post
    It's worhtwhile IMHO to get the later 6x6 pressure plate if LT95, definately heavier pedal. My original was slipping very slightly for a while, but it was almost impossible to tell during normal ops, unless heavy towing or lugging. The old plate was shiney, and the flywheel had hotspots. Installation wasn't the best.
    I have a 6x6/turbo pressure plate, thatks to Brian/Bearman

    The factory spec for minimum flywheel thickness is 30.5 mm, measured between the friction face and the mounting face. Mine is still original thickness (31.5 mm), so even though heavily scored should still have plenty of meat after machining.

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