A Spares to carry with you list

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

you need to prepack the wheel bearings as the oil does not instantly get to them especially if you have the oneshot converted wheel hubs.

a lot of spares I carry I generally carry for their Towel value.

(yes, its a guide reference)

---

Sorry mate, I must be missing something here, when I do the wheel bearings, (I've only done them once as a precaution) I fill the housing with the same oil I fill the diff housing with, surely this only takes a split second to lube the bearing if you're unlucky enough not to spill oil on them in the first place. As far as I understood they are linked ie no seal in-between. We are talking Isuzu County's here and not Defenders aren't we?.
I also found them really easy to do, and you don't get covered in grease trying to repack the bearings like you have to for a Toyota. I reckon the only reason LR went to greased wheel bearings is that they don't leak on the nice clean garage floor, they certainly didn't consider bearing longevity.

indeed you are missing something here.

the oil in the swivel housing does not instantly make it to the hub bearings.

if you have converted the hub or have a hub that is converted to one shot grease then there is no oil. (again on the towel value of the parts what if its not your hub theyre going into?)

assuming that you blow the hub badly enough to kill the bearings (or have spat the seal and have had to change out the contaminated oil and youre going to replace them you may not have the oil available and might resort to having to use the grease to pack the CV in the siwvel housing in which case you have to pack the bearings....

i set of wheel bearings
2 Uni's
fuel line
coolant hoses
4 fuel filters, if you need to change one you will need to change it again ( dirty fuel.
I tin of fiberglass Car Bog, for fixing fuel water sumps radiator etc
1.5 X the oil in your sump
1 tube RTV
1 fan belt

clutch master and slave kits
fluid for 3 changes

thats where i am up to, only other thing i am thinking about is a water pump.

open to comments

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by 1103.9TDI

Surely this only takes a split second to lube the bearing.

---

How fast will the bearings be rotating after 2 seconds of rapid Landy acceleration?.

Thats if you don't pre-oil the things.

Oil dribbles out of the hub when level with the dust cap removed!, am I overfilling the hub?. The diff is at the correct quantity when level.



I'll try not to miss something again!.

Of course there's also no point carrying spares if you can't carry the tools to replace said parts.
This is where universal joints has me interested, I don't carry a vice to press them in/out.

only other thing i am thinking about is a water pump.

open to comments[/QUOTE]


I wouldnt bother carrying a spare seeing as how my previous motor did 0ver 750k and never did a water pump............Brian

Thanks guys this is awesome - the exact discussion I was hoping for. :)

I'm relatively handy with a spanner (compared to many) but nothing like most around this forum.

Re the bearings, do the Oil lubricated county ones have the same problem with sucking in water during river crossings? Is it more susceptible to this because it does not have the extra seal?

Cheers,
Dec

Re the bearings, do the Oil lubricated county ones have the same problem with sucking in water during river crossings? Is it more susceptible to this because it does not have the extra seal?

Cheers,
Dec[/QUOTE]

As long as your axle breather is above the water level there should be no ingress into the axle/bearings..........Brian

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Dougal

Of course there's also no point carrying spares if you can't carry the tools to replace said parts.
This is where universal joints has me interested, I don't carry a vice to press them in/out.

---

good point

always got a high lift jack, and just use a nut instead of a socket

yep they all suffer from it about the same, although the grease fhub, if you pack it totally full is usually the best bet if theres no void for the air to expand in because there is no air.......

however then it usually forces grease out past the seal and you can wind up sucking it in anyway or spreading grease all over your brakes.

The Uj is easy enough all you really need is flat metal plate on your bull bar, a socket that suits the size hole, circip pliers and a decent hammer.

I wouldnt worry about the water pump or the thermostat for the 3.9 if the thermostat goes rip it out and goop the housing.

I have a couple of big boxes of parts at home that someone always has access to thats basically got enough bits in it to rebuild the vehicle (yes, spare axle housings complete w diffs, gearbox,tcase) that I can have transported and theres always MR auto and a few other places that will send parts on as needed.