X eng deflex kit

'Has your friend suffered the same problem? If it's fitted to a more standard configuration truck, I'm confident that it will be OK (but happy to be proven wrong!).'

:p:p:p:p:p You're avin a larf, guv!! Matts 120, Standard configuration?? Maybe you should send in some pics so they get the general gist...:eek::D

Great service though, LR need to learn something here:)

JC

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Originally Posted by justinc

'Has your friend suffered the same problem? If it's fitted to a more standard configuration truck, I'm confident that it will be OK (but happy to be proven wrong!).'

:p:p:p:p:p You're avin a larf, guv!! Matts 120, Standard configuration?? Maybe you should send in some pics so they get the general gist...:eek::D

Great service though, LR need to learn something here:)

JC

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Indeed - Matt - sounds like you have an invitation to go and drive the nearest MX track with a subaru brumby strapped to the tray :D

^^^^:lol2::lol2::lol2::lol2:^^^^ What have I done:eek:

Anyway, Simon and I have bounced some emails and pics etc to determine where it gave out and what strength will be needed without using a truss out of the Sydney harbour bridge:lol2: Remember all this weight has to be controlled buy our shocks!

So the simple permanent out come may be to laminate two 6mm arms with bolts and retain the curve so still fits with an exhaust rather than re-engineering the arm or making another straight arm fit the drive hub.
Will be more than twice the strength!

Not much will happen here for a few weeks as X-Eng are closing for holidays till 21st feb. Comp truck time?

I'm welding a brace to mine to get going in the mean time.

With after sales back up like that, I'd have no qualms buying from them :)

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Originally Posted by isuzutoo-eh

With after sales back up like that, I'd have no qualms buying from them :)

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Yep, me too. I'll be shopping there when I do the Rangies suspension!

Also. As JC hinted,,, if LR had backup like this I would likely be driving a Late Disco or Phewma as my family ride rather than a Thai built Japer.;)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by isuzurover

Indeed - Matt - sounds like you have an invitation to go and drive the nearest MX track with a subaru brumby strapped to the tray :D

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Can't......brumby is solded:(

I've seen Tony's thing and the work it does and I think he still has the crown for working his to the bone, don't get me wrong, I'll abuse the **** out of mine, but tony's does it day in, day out.......and I haven't bent mine yet:D

Is the halfshaft that is suppplied with the kit an original LandRover item, or has it been made like a proper torsion bar with the shaft diameter necked down between the splines?
Wagoo.

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Originally Posted by wagoo

Is the halfshaft that is suppplied with the kit an original LandRover item, or has it been made like a proper torsion bar with the shaft diameter necked down between the splines?
Wagoo.

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Here's the answer.....

Snip
They start off as a bog standard half shaft. We have them annealed to remove the original heat treatment then they go through a new cycle (not sure of the exact details) which effectively increases the spring rate - reaching max torque after 90 deg rather than the original 180 deg.

The breaking torque remains about the same - but it is a fair bit stiffer and the reaction torque on the vehicle climbs faster than an off the shelf shaft.

Kind regards,


Cheers Tony

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Rangier Rover

^^^^:lol2::lol2::lol2::lol2:^^^^ What have I done:eek:

Anyway, Simon and I have bounced some emails and pics etc to determine where it gave out and what strength will be needed without using a truss out of the Sydney harbour bridge:lol2: Remember all this weight has to be controlled buy our shocks!

So the simple permanent out come may be to laminate two 6mm arms with bolts and retain the curve so still fits with an exhaust rather than re-engineering the arm or making another straight arm fit the drive hub.
Will be more than twice the strength!

Not much will happen here for a few weeks as X-Eng are closing for holidays till 21st feb. Comp truck time?

I'm welding a brace to mine to get going in the mean time.

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Pics soon. I welded a gusset along the inside curve, not the strongest but neater. So far OK. Has lasted over two hours:)

The laminate idea can only be 3mm thick so only 4X as strong.

A gusset on the out side 25X3mm close to 6X.

I can see clearance issues with the gusset out side so went inside, I don't have CAD to work it all out but may be at least 4X as strong at a guess.

Looks promising now!

How it drives..... With just over a ton on now corners like it would have with no load. The ride is firmer due to the torsion bar effect. Still OK though. On a very rough road I would disengage it if possible. But great on the black top:D

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Rangier Rover

Here's the answer.....

Snip
They start off as a bog standard half shaft. We have them annealed to remove the original heat treatment then they go through a new cycle (not sure of the exact details) which effectively increases the spring rate - reaching max torque after 90 deg rather than the original 180 deg.

The breaking torque remains about the same - but it is a fair bit stiffer and the reaction torque on the vehicle climbs faster than an off the shelf shaft.

Kind regards,


Cheers Tony

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Thanks,I suppose Simon knows what he's doing,and he does make some good stuff, but I'm surprised the axle wasn't necked down to a constant diameter over its whole length between the splines and smooth finished so that the torsional deflection is distributed more evenly. And even without hindsight,6mm thick material for those link arms does seem a bit light.

Anyone know what the calculation for single wheel bump spring rate is for axles fitted with anti roll bars ? Isn't it the sum of both left and right hand side springs plus the rate of the antiroll bar ?If so that certainly would account for the firmer ride.
Wagoo.
Wagoo.