Thread: Best (economic) engine for a LWB series hardtop?

I just got rid of my crappy 4 banger when I registered the landy - the cost of buying another car, $600 plus per year to register, another $150 per year for bomb insurance, and I spent more time under the bonnet of my barina in a month than I've spent under the bonnet of the landy in 6 months

I take it that was a Spanish Barina .
If you want reliability buy a Japanese car. I bought an 85 Camry on behalf of my daughter 1 year ago with 340KK on it and it goes perfectly.
We also handed down a 92 Mazda 121 now with over 200 Kk with NO problems except for wear and tear . No BS like a Barina with the stupid EGR valve.
Look I will be radical here and suggest a Holden 3.8 V6 with 3.54 diffs. The higher diffs will protect the transmission somewhat, you can get parts anywhere and they are very cheap. They also are children of the 3.5 V8 so have some Land Rover cred. It will certainly cruise at 100Kmh plus easily.
Regards Philip A

my dad put an 18R Toyota engine in his, an amazing little engine, needed the reves but could still tow another series 3 lwb across the tanami desert to save on fuel lol. Not sure on what box he used though, might have to ask him.

18r is an awesome motor. Used for anything from truck to hiluxes to celicas. Twin cam version also available. Be interested in how it was adapted.

OK if you are suggesting Toy engines go the 22R 2.4 litre engine. Extremely robust, many examples I have seen in Hiluxes are pushing 350,000km. Fitted up to the mid 90's. 18R's are getting long in the tooth.

Originally Posted by PhilipA

Look I will be radical here and suggest a Holden 3.8 V6 with 3.54 diffs. The higher diffs will protect the transmission somewhat, you can get parts anywhere and they are very cheap. They also are children of the 3.5 V8 so have some Land Rover cred. It will certainly cruise at 100Kmh plus easily.
Regards Philip A

I've never heard the 3.8 v6 being offered as "economical" before. The thirstiest cars I've driven were powered by those. 16 litres per 100km in a commodore.

You've got a 186 put it on gas and within 6 months it will have paid for itself, with the $$ you are now saving buy a fairey O/D unit and plan to rebuild the 186 in about 5 years or if your proactive get an old block and fit hardened valve seats and piston rings so you can run it on gas.
Another alternative is get a newer engine(now or in the future) and put it on gas as any engine designed to run on unleaded will run fine on gas as unleaded(the same as gas) does not provide a lube like the old leaded engines needed. Another bonus is that your engine will run a bit cooler on gas. Dont buy the valve lube if you put in a unleaded engine as it's just a sales gimick. The main thing to do is if you do switch to gas always fill the petrol up with premium and throw in some wynn's spitfire(octane boost) occasionally because if your like me you will run on gas 95% and only fill up the petrol every 4-6 weeks, so this stops the petrol from going off to much, and makes it closer to the lpg octane(higher than pulp) rating so easier to tune.

I've never heard the 3.8 v6 being offered as "economical" before. The thirstiest cars I've driven were powered by those. 16 litres per 100km in a commodore.

You must have a lead foot.
I have seen in the 9s on cruise in a Commodore wagon.( and down to 7s in a 3.6)
You do know that they lean out progessively on cruise until they are running in the 15 or 16 to 1. That is why the first time you accelerate after cruise they are really doughy.
Around town is different if you use the power but AFAIR the poster was talking highway cruise.
And there are many people around who can adapt the ECU.
Regards Philip A

Originally Posted by PhilipA

You must have a lead foot.
I have seen in the 9s on cruise in a Commodore wagon.( and down to 7s in a 3.6)
You do know that they lean out progessively on cruise until they are running in the 15 or 16 to 1. That is why the first time you accelerate after cruise they are really doughy.
Around town is different if you use the power but AFAIR the poster was talking highway cruise.
And there are many people around who can adapt the ECU.
Regards Philip A

That was the average for a work car that a boss commuted in. On a 30km run out of town it I couldn't get it below 12 litres per 100km. That's in a car, I shudder to think what it would drink in a landrover.

If you're looking to save fuel the answer is always direct injection diesel.